Climbing tour Musenalp «Musentürme»

Above Dallenwil, high above the Engelberg Valley, this varied climbing tour leads over the Musentürme (Muses' Towers). The route combines enjoyable pleasure climbing with an alpine atmosphere and great views down into the valley.

Thanks to its sunny position, the tour is particularly suitable for spring and autumn. The climbing is mostly on solid limestone rock, but also has a somewhat alpine character in places. Airy passages repeatedly provide an impressive climbing experience.

A particular highlight is the striking crack in the middle of the route. The climbing here is beautifully exposed and ranks among the most impressive sections of the entire tour.

Tour data

• Difficulty: 6a
• Character: Pleasure climbing
• Approach: approx. 60 minutes
• Season: April to November
• Length: 9 rope lengths
• Start: approx. 1500 m a.s.l.
• Exhibition: West

Enjoyable climbing over three towers

The route links the three stylish Muse Towers into a varied climbing tour. The difficulties remain moderate, and the climbing is mostly technical and enjoyable.
The combination of solid rock, airy passages and the view of the Engelberg valley makes the Musentürme an ideal destination for ambitious pleasure climbers.

Key point

The most difficult pitch is located in the striking crack in the middle of the route. The climbing here is airy, exposed, and at the same time very well protected. For many teams, this is the most impressive pitch of the entire tour.

Approach

The ascent is probably the actual key point of the tour.

From Niederrickenbach, the ascent is through a steep forest towards the Musentürme. Red markers and cairns help with orientation in places, but not consistently. The path is only faintly recognisable in parts and requires a good sense of direction.

The approach is partly in the T5 area. Towards the end, you briefly traverse across a gully and then ascend steeply to the start.

Anyone visiting the route for the first time should allow plenty of time for navigation.

Security

The route is well established.

• 1 x 50 m rope
• 13 quickdraws

are sufficient for an inspection.

Despite good safety measures, the route remains a challenging alpine undertaking. Consideration for nature, wildlife and alpine pastures is expected.

Arrival

The Mussen towers are usually reached from Niederrickenbach. The cable car significantly shortens the approach and also makes the tour an attractive half-day excursion.

Who is it suitable for?

The Muses' Towers are suitable for local climbers who enjoy a small adventure right on their doorstep. Thanks to the good protection and moderate difficulties, the route is ideal for sport climbers in the 6a grade range.

The tour is less suitable for people with little alpine experience or who are unsure about approaches in trackless terrain.

With a mountain guide

The Muses' Towers are ideally suited for climbers looking to gain their first experience of multi-pitch climbing or further develop their technique in alpine terrain.

Together we are working on rope techniques, belay station organisation and efficient climbing on multi-pitch routes.

FAQ

Useful Links

More climbing routes in the region

• Gross Walenstock North Ridge
• Sunnigberg Nünalphorn
• Lauchernstock East Ridge Knife
• Lauchern–Rigidalstock Traverse

My review

Scenery: ★★★★☆
Rock quality: ★★☆☆☆
Security: ★★★★★
Adventure: ★★★★☆
Approach: ★★☆☆☆
Overall impression: ★★★☆☆

My tip & conclusion

The Muses' Towers are particularly rewarding in spring and autumn. On hot summer days, the southwest-facing aspect can get warm quickly. After prolonged periods of rain, it is worth paying special attention to the approach.
The Muses' Towers are a hidden spot above Dallenwil. Those who master the demanding approach are rewarded with airy climbing, beautiful views, and a surprisingly varied route. The striking crack in the middle of the route and the descent with the excellent cable car are particularly memorable.