Alpine climbing · Engelberg · Melchtal
Nünalphorn over the Sunnigberggrat
The Sunnigberggrat leads via the long northeast ridge to the 2,385-metre-high Nünalphorn. The tour combines pathless mountaineering with easy, partly exposed climbing.
The ridge begins at the Bocki-Rotisand and leads over several rises and ridge towers to the summit. The climbing sections are mostly in the second and third grades of difficulty. There are only a few bolt anchors available. The route must therefore be largely self-protected.
- Summit
- 2,385 m
- Difficulty
- III bis III+
- Time required
- approx. 7–10 hours
- Season
- June – October
- Ascent
- approx. 1,000 vertical metres
- Descent
- approx. 1,000–1,400 m gain
- Start of term
- Bocki-Rotisand, 2,204 m
- Area
- Engelberg–Melchtal
The metres of elevation gain depend on the starting point and the chosen descent option. An e-bike can be used for the ascent to the Haltenhütte.
Via the north-east ridge
Route description
Engelberg – Haltenhütte
From Engelberg, the ascent leads via Örtigen, Arniloch and the alpine road to the Haltenhütte. This section can easily be done by e-bike.
Anyone going on foot must allow correspondingly more time and altitude for the entire tour.
Haltenhütte – Bocki-Rotisand
From the Haltenhütte, the route leads via Stafelplanggen and Ochsenmatt up to the Bockigrat. The final section leads over grass and scree to the Bocki-Rotisand pass at 2,204 metres.
Here the actual Sunnigberggrat begins.
The first ridge towers
From the Bocki-Rotisand, follow the ridge towards the south-west. Right at the beginning, easy climbing sections alternate with walking passages in steep grass and scree terrain.
Individual towers are climbed directly. Other sections can be bypassed on the south side or descended by down-climbing.
Over the Sunnigberggrat
The ridge now becomes narrower and is partly exposed. The climbing is mostly around grade two. Individual sections reach grade three or III+.
The route is not continuously marked. At several points, you have to decide for yourself whether to climb directly over a rise or bypass it to the side.
Final climb to the Nünalphorn
After the long middle section comes the final major ascent. Over tiered rock and a short groove, you reach the summit area of the Nünalphorn.
Just before the highest point is the route book. A little later, you reach the summit cross at 2,385 metres.
Descent via the Juchli Pass
From the summit, descend southwards along the normal route to the Juchlipass. From there, the path leads via Steinboden back towards the Haltenhütte.
Depending on the organisation, a descent to the Melchtal side or towards Rugisbalm is also possible. These options require suitable transport planning.
The ridge in detail
Sunny Mountain Ridge Topography
The topo shows the most important pitches, bypasses and climbing sections. The exact choice of line must be adapted to the terrain.
Long ridge above two valleys
Tour characteristics
The Sunnigberggrat is a long alpine ridge tour. The climbing sections are not particularly difficult individually. The length, route finding and partially exposed passages nonetheless make the tour demanding.
The rock is in places sound and has good holds. In between there is grass, scree and loose stones. Particularly after rain, the terrain takes time to dry out.
From the ridge, the view extends over the Engelbergertal, the Melchtal, the Titlis, the Spannörter and the surrounding Pre-alpine peaks. There are usually only a few rope teams out and about on this route.
You should be able to do that
Requirements
The Sunnigberg ridge is suitable for mountain walkers with good sure-footedness and some climbing experience.
- Good fitness level for a long day trip
- Safe walking in pathless terrain
- Surefootedness on grass, scree and rock
- A head for heights on a partially exposed ridge
- Climbing sections up to the third grade of difficulty
- Safe downclimbing at grade two
- Experience with ropes and mobile anchors
For the Sunnigberggrat
Equipment
- Helmet and climbing harness
- climbing rope
- belay and descender device
- locking carabiners and slings
- Nuts and friends for traditional climbing
- Sturdy mountaineering or approach shoes
- Enough food and drink for a long day
- Appropriate clothing for wind and changing weather
Good to know
Questions about the Sunnigberggrat
How difficult is the Sunnigberggrat?
Most of the climbing sections are at grade two and three. Individual sections reach III+. In addition, there is exposed walking terrain, steep grass and easy climbing sections that have to be down-climbed.
Is the route bolted?
Only partially. There are occasional pitons and protection options. A large part of the route must be protected independently using slings, nuts and camming devices.
Is the tour suitable for climbing beginners?
As a guided tour, the Sunnigberggrat can be an introduction to alpine climbing for sure-footed mountain hikers or experienced via ferrata enthusiasts. For an unguided ascent, experience with ropes, belaying techniques and alpine route finding is required.
Can you do the approach on an e-bike?
Yes. The Alpine road from Engelberg to the Haltenhütte can be ridden with an e-bike. This significantly shortens the long approach. The bike is left at the Haltenhütte.
How does the descent take place?
The usual descent leads from the Nünalphorn via the standard route to the Juchlipass and further via Steinboden back to the Haltenhütte. Further descents towards Melchtal or Rugisbalm are possible, but require appropriate transport planning.
When are the best conditions?
The ridge should be free of snow and dry. Conditions are usually suitable between June and October. After rain, grass and rock can remain damp for a considerable time.
Alpine Tour from Engelberg
Sunnigberggrat with mountain guide
On a guided tour, the mountain guide takes care of the route finding and the securing of the climbing sections. Before the start, we check the weather, conditions and the appropriate descent option.
CHF 700.– per day and mountain guide · excl. expenses
Further ridge walks
Similar tours
Further alpine rock climbs and ridge tours around Engelberg.
Mousetowers
Short alpine rock-climbing tour across several rock pinnacles above the Musenalp.
View tour
Laucheren–Rigidalstock
Long traverse with pathless approach, ridge scrambling and multiple summits.
View tour
Laucherenstock knife
Pathless approach, scrambling terrain and climbing sections on a narrow ridge.
View tour
Further climbing tours
Multi-pitch routes, ridge climbs and alpine rock climbs around Engelberg.
View all toursRock climbing tour Nünalphorn «Sunnigberggrat»
Contents
The Sunnigberggrat on the Nünalphorn is one of the quiet and little-known alpine climbing routes around Engelberg. The varied ridge climb leads through a wild mountain landscape between Scheidegsstock, Rotsandnollen and Nünalphorn and offers magnificent views of the Alps and the Engelberg valley.
Unlike many well-known climbing routes in the region, you will often encounter only a few other rope teams here. It is precisely this solitude that makes the tour so appealing. The ridge runs via varied rock sections, airy ridge pinnacles and short grassy sections up to the summit of the Nünalphorn.
The climbing is mostly around the third grade of difficulty and is ideally suited to experienced mountain hikers and via ferrata enthusiasts looking to get into traditional alpine climbing. As there are only a few fixed bolt anchors, you should be proficient in the use of mobile protection equipment.
The ascent is easily done by e-bike to the Haltenhütte. The approach through the high alpine landscape alone makes this tour a special experience.
Tour details
- Difficulty: III+
- Alpine climbing
- Time required: 7–10 hours
- Season: June to October
- Ascent: approx. 1,000 vertical metres
- Descent: approx. 1400 vertical metres
- Lowest point: 2204 m above sea level.
- Highest point: 2,285 m above sea level.
- Exhibition: North-East
- Protection: hardly any bolts, mobile protection equipment required
Map & Topo
Tour characteristics
The Sunnigberggrat combines easy climbing with an impressive landscape. The route follows a logical ridge line and continually offers fantastic views down into the Engelberg valley and of the surrounding peaks of Brunni and Melchtal.
If you enjoy long alpine expeditions and like to travel away from the well-known classics, you will find a thoroughly rewarding tour here.
Particularly appealing is the combination of alpine climbing, solitude and the magnificent view of Titlis, Spannort, Gross Walenstock and the peaks of the Uri Alps.
Geology at the Sunnigberggrat
The ridge consists predominantly of limestone, which was formed millions of years ago on the floor of a tropical sea. During the formation of the Alps, these layers were folded and uplifted.
Along the ridge, numerous geological structures can be identified that impressively reveal the formation of the Alps. The striking limestone peaks around Engelberg are among the most fascinating geological formations in Central Switzerland.
Further ridge walks
Some of the most popular tours in the region include:
- Gross Walenstock North Ridge
- Lauchernstock East Ridge «Knife»
- Lauchern Rigidalstock traverse
- Rigidalstock traverse
- Wissberg
- Spannort traverse
Together they form one of the most versatile alpine climbing areas in Central Switzerland.
Out with a mountain guide
The Sunnigberggrat is ideal for getting started with alpine climbing.
