High-altitude tour Klein Titlis South Face

The Klein Titlis is usually reached comfortably by cable car. However, those who wish to climb the summit under their own steam will find a surprisingly alpine and varied route on the south face.

The tour leads from the Engelberg valley via the Grassen bivouac route directly onto the Titlis massif. It combines mountain hiking, light climbing and high alpine terrain into one of the most exciting alternatives to the well-known viewpoint mountain.

Route description

The ascent begins in the Engelberg valley and initially leads via hiking trails and alpine paths towards the Grassen bivouac. As the altitude increases, the terrain becomes steeper and rockier.

The former via ferrata on the south face has been largely dismantled. The steel ropes have been removed, but numerous steel pitons are still present and can be used for belaying with ropes if needed. The ladders at the steep key sections are also still in good condition as of 2025.

Via steep scree slopes, ladders and stepped rocky terrain, one finally reaches the upper part of the Titlis massif and ascends directly to the Klein Titlis.

Unlike the normal route, you save yourself the big descent after the ascent and experience the Titlis from its wild and little-known side.

Tour data

Difficulty: ZS / III
Time requirement: approx. 7 hours
Season: July to September
Ascent: 2000 m
Descent: 50 hm
Start: 1084 m above sea level.
Summit height: 3062 m a.s.l.

Requirements

This tour is aimed at experienced mountaineers with a love for alpine terrain.

You should:

to be absolutely sure-footed and have no fear of heights
to be able to move safely in trackless terrain
to be able to manage simple climbing sections up to grade III
To manage 2000 metres of ascent without any problems
Experience in alpine terrain.

Pathfinding and Dangers

The route finding in the south face is challenging and requires attention. Markings are only partially present.
In addition, there is a risk of falling rocks, particularly in the upper section of the wall. The route should therefore only be undertaken in dry conditions and stable weather.
A helmet is part of the standard equipment. For less experienced mountaineers, a rope for belaying on steeper sections is also recommended.

Impressions

Nature of the tour

The Klein Titlis via the south face is not a classic high-altitude tour, but an alpine mountain tour with climbing sections, exposed passages, and challenging route-finding. The combination of a direct ascent from the valley, alpine terrain, and the historic former via ferrata route makes this tour particularly appealing.

Mole

Former via ferrata in the south face

In 1993 and 94, a via ferrata was established on the south face of the Klein Titlis. Due to the significant snow pressure and immense wet snow avalanches in spring, the via ferrata was repeatedly damaged. Consequently, the decision was made not to maintain the via ferrata any longer.

My tip

The south face is one of the most exciting ways to reach the Titlis under your own steam. Conditions are often ideal, especially in late summer and early autumn. Anyone who wants to experience the well-known Titlis away from the tourist crowds will find a surprisingly solitary and alpine route here.

Conclusion

The south face of Klein Titlis is a varied mountain tour for experienced mountaineers. The combination of a direct ascent, easy climbing, alpine environment, and the impressive backdrop of the Titlis south face makes it one of the most interesting alternative routes on the Titlis.

Is the via ferrata in the Titlis south face still there?

No. The wire ropes have for the most part been removed. However, as of 2025, the steel rods and ladders are still present and can partially be used for securing.