High-altitude tours · Engelberg · Susten · Furka · Glarner Alps
Rewarding high-altitude alpine tours in Central Switzerland for beginners
You've got it Alpine mountaineering camp finished and looking for ideas for your first independent tours? Here you will find peaks in Central Switzerland that are well-suited for beginners: manageable glaciers, easy ridges and plenty of opportunity to put what you have learned into practice.
Eight summits, from the first glacier destination to the challenging ridge hike: Here you’ll find the complete tour profiles with highlights, sketches, maps, and tips for your next step on the mountain.
- Tour selection
- 8 summits with variations
- Starting point
- Engelberg, Susten, Furka & Glarnerland
- Best preparation
- High-altitude course & common routine
- Planning
- Route, conditions & team
Content
Why Central Switzerland is ideal for high-altitude mountaineering
Ob Glacier tour, firn flank or slight burr – Central Switzerland offers everything needed for those first independent steps after a alpine mountaineering course requires. Many of the goals presented here can already be achieved with basic knowledge of using Ice axe, crampons and roped party safe ascent. Less important than the difficulty of the tour is the routine within the team: whoever as rope team is experienced in crevasse rescue and anchor building, and is able to take charge of route planning themselves, is well prepared for these peaks.
Between Engelberg, Susten and Furka you will find numerous straightforward high-altitude tours with manageable glaciers and reasonable approaches. This allows you to gain experience without every venture turning into a major expedition.
Tips from the mountain guide on the path to self-employment
✓ Repeat familiar tours.
Activities that you have already led or done with more experienced colleagues are ideal for your first independent steps.
✓ Farm routine on easy targets.
Many easy high-altitude tours will take you further in the long run than single difficult projects. Safety comes from repetition and experience.
✓ Grow together as a rope team.
Those who regularly head out with the same partners develop trust, clear routines and better communication in the field.
✓ Use a mountain guide as a coach.
A group of one to four people is particularly sensible. This allows us to go on exciting tours together while working specifically on your skills.
✓ Get some new ideas.
We are happy to accompany you on these or other tour suggestions and put together a suitable programme. Upon request, we will send you a tailored quote.
Gross Spannort (3198 m)
Difficulty: ZS+, climbing sections up to grade III
The Gross Spannort is one of the finest peaks around Engelberg. The tour combines Glaciers, névé and easy climbing to a varied high-altitude tour with an impressive alpine atmosphere. After the Alpine mountaineering camp the summit is ideal for applying a lot of what has been learned: walking in a rope team, glacier crossings, easy climbing sections and abseiling – all at a very manageable level.
Highlights
✓ Engelberg landmark
✓ Impressive peak shape
✓ Sunrise at the Schlossberglücke
✓ Climbing sections up to grade III and short abseil points
Vorder Tierberg (3091 m)
Difficulty: L
The Vorder Tierberg is one of the classic introductory high-altitude tours in Switzerland. From the Tierbergli hut, the route leads across easy glacier terrain and a short final ascent to the summit. There are no climbing sections, but rather an impressive glacier landscape.
The ascent to the hut the previous day via the Tierbergli via ferrata adds extra variety to the trip and provides an ideal introduction to alpine mountaineering.
Highlights
✓ Perfect first high alpine tour
✓ Short approaches and straightforward terrain
✓ Ideal training and practice grounds
✓ Overnight stay in the cosy Tierbergli hut
Sustenhorn (3503 m)
Difficulty: L
The Sustenhorn is a major classic of Central Switzerland. The route leads across the Stein Glacier and offers an impressive glacial landscape without any major technical difficulties.
Nevertheless, clean walking in the rope team, the correct use of the glacier rope and a keen eye for crevasse zones are important. This makes the Sustenhorn a very good objective for gaining routine on the glacier after the high-alpine mountaineering camp.
Highlights
✓ Central Switzerland classics
✓ Impressive glacier world
✓ Ideal for beginners
✓ Very good tour for practising rope team technique
Gwächtenhorn (3420 m)
Difficulty: L (standard route), WS / II (west ridge)
The Gwächtenhorn is a classic from the Tierbergli hut. Via the normal route, you reach the summit without any major technical difficulties and can gain valuable experience on snow and glaciers.
The West Ridge offers the next step: simple climbing sections, working with the rope and mobile belays in alpine terrain. An ideal route for gaining confidence on the ridge and putting what you learnt on the high-altitude mountaineering course into practice.
Highlights
✓ A varied training and practice route
✓ Beautiful firn slopes and glacial landscape
✓ West ridge with easy climbing and rope work
✓ Perfect for mountaineering courses and your first independent expeditions
Clariden (3267 m)
Difficulty: L – WS
The Clariden is one of the great classics of Central Switzerland. The standard route leads over extensive glacier terrain and ends with easy scrambling on the summit ridge, which is secured with a chain at the exposed sections.
A rewarding high-altitude trek for anyone who, having gained some initial experience on glaciers, is looking for a longer expedition across varied terrain.
Highlights
✓ One of the great classics of Central Switzerland
✓ Stunning glacial landscape
✓ Some easy scrambling on the summit ridge
✓ Stunning panoramic views of the Glarus Alps
Galenstock (3586 m)
Difficulty: WS+, climbing routes up to grade II
The Galenstock is one of the most striking peaks in the Furka region. The standard route via the SSE ridge offers varied terrain, including a glacier, easy climbing and exposed abseil sections. The view down onto the Rhône Glacier makes the climb particularly impressive.
For mountaineers who want to take the next step after their first few easy high-altitude climbs, the Galenstock is an ideal destination.
Highlights
✓ One of the most beautiful peaks in the region offering stunning views
✓ Varied and exciting high-altitude tour
✓ Stunning glacial landscape
✓ Great rock for scrambling and short abseil sections
Dammastock (3630 m)
Difficulty: L (standard route from Belvédère), ZS- (east ridge)
The Dammastock is the highest peak in the Uri Alps. The standard route from Belvédère is a long glacier trek through impressive crevasse fields and requires stamina as well as the ability to walk confidently as part of a rope team.
The east ridge from the Dammahütte is considerably more exciting and challenging. It offers varied climbing and is a rewarding destination for experienced mountaineers.
Highlights
✓ Highest peak in the Uri Alps
✓ Stunning glacial landscape
✓ A classic high-altitude hiking destination
✓ Striking fissure zones and vast glacial expanses
Vrenelisgärtli (2904 m)
Difficulty: L
The Vrenelisgärtli is a beautiful and rewarding high-altitude hike in the Glarus Alps. From the Glärnischhütte, the route leads over firn and glaciers to the summit. Technically, the hike is straightforward, but it does require a good level of fitness and the ability to walk confidently as part of a rope team.
For beginners, the Vrenelisgärtli is a good destination for consolidating their initial experience of glaciers and for planning a longer high-altitude tour independently.
Highlights
✓ A well-known peak in the Glarus Alps
✓ Easy glacier crossings
✓ A rewarding walk starting from the Glärnischhütte
✓ A good high-altitude hike to gain experience
Learn mountaineering instead of just experiencing it
Even the simplest high-altitude treks require knowledge of how to use crampons, ice axes, roping up and the dangers of glaciers.
If you want to be self-sufficient in the long term, you will benefit from thorough training and regular coaching. That is precisely why high-altitude mountaineering courses and mountain camps are an ideal way to build experience and further develop your skills.
The mountains don't get any easier. However, with knowledge and experience, you get better yourself. You can find further training courses at Mountain Camps.
Recommended mountain guides for high-altitude mountaineering in Central Switzerland
- Jasper Hoekstra
- Julian Fürsinger
- Tobias Granath
- Jonas Allajuuma
- Dani Perret
FAQ
Which high-altitude tour is the right one for beginners?
The Vorder Tierberg is considered an ideal first high-altitude tour: short approaches, manageable glacier terrain and a short, easy final ascent. Anyone who is safe on their feet here can gradually work their way up to more demanding objectives such as the Sustenhorn or the Clariden.
Do you need a mountain guide for these tours?
Not strictly necessary, but recommended – especially for your first independent ventures. A mountain guide can not only safely accompany you on the tour, but also work specifically on your skills so that you can travel more independently afterwards.
What equipment do you need for a high-altitude tour in Central Switzerland?
Basic equipment includes an ice axe, crampons, glacier rope, climbing harness and crevasse rescue equipment. The exact requirements vary depending on the tour – details can be found in the respective tour descriptions or in the high alpine touring camp.
When is the best season for high-altitude mountaineering in Central Switzerland?
The main season is between June and September, when the glaciers are easy to traverse and the huts are staffed. Early summer tours can entail additional requirements depending on snow conditions.
How do I find out which tour suits my level?
The easiest way is in person: Contact us with your previous experience, and we will put together a suitable programme for you – whether as a guided tour or targeted coaching.
