Multi-pitch routes · Stäfeli · Engelberg
Äbnet Wäg Climbing – five pitches above Stäfeli
Climbing Äbnet Wäg means: five manageable pitches through the well-structured limestone wall of the Hoch Flue above Alp Stäfeli. Numerous bolt anchors and varied climbing sections make the route a rewarding destination for first multi-pitch tours and enjoyable days of climbing.
Take the e-bike as far as Stäfeli and then walk to the start – this is how you can combine the journey with a short approach. Anyone who wants to keep climbing after the route will find the Äbnet climbing garden a great addition to the day.
- Difficulty
- up to 5c according to topo · 5a OBLIG.
- Length
- 5 pitches
- boarding
- from Stäfeli approx. 15 minutes
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Entrance
- approx. 1480 m
- Season
- April–October · depending on conditions
- Exhibition
- South
- Character
- limestone climbing · short multi-pitch route
The ratings differ from one another: the route overview lists 5b, the detailed topo lists 5c twice. Plan the climbing according to the topo up to 5c. The direct start variation is graded 6a.
To Stäfeli by e-bike
Access description
Route to Stäfeli
Dani recommends taking an e-bike as far as Stäfeli. Park the bike in such a way that paths and agricultural access roads remain clear. From here, continue on foot.
Through the steep grassy flank
The approach from Stäfeli is stated to take about 15 minutes. The access route leads through a steep grassy slope to the Hoch Flue. Good footwear with a grippy sole and a sure foot are important. Please take care of the pasture fence and close any existing gates behind you.
Base of the wall start
According to the topo, the start is at about 1480 metres at the Swiss coordinates 680’352 / 183’812 (LV03). The normal start runs on the right and is graded 5a. To the left of it is the harder direct variant rated 6a.
The line through the Hoch Flue
Top Open-Air Trail
The topo shows the five pitches, the direct start variant and the exit with a belay at a tree. Compare the starts on site with the picture to ensure you start on the desired line.
Steep, well-structured limestone
The climbing route
Open path
- Compulsory.
- 5a
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Rope
- 1 × 50 m
- Material
- 10 quickdraws
A short multi-pitch route with well-structured rock and steep sections. The close bolting provides good conditions for first multi-pitch tours with the necessary basic knowledge or under experienced guidance.
According to the detailed topo up to 5c; differing overall grading in the route overview: 5b. Direct start on the left: 6a.
First ascent: S. Speck and D. Perret, summer 2016.
Entrance and lower wall
The normal first pitch leads to the right at 5a for 30 metres to the belay. This is followed by a 25-metre-long pitch, which is graded 5c in the topo. The left direct start variant is marked as 6a and 25 metres.
middle section and steep climb
The third pitch is graded 4c and is 25 metres long. This is followed by another 25-metre pitch graded 5c. Here the topo shows a prominent steep section.
Exit
The final pitch leads via 4a for 15 metres to the belay at a tree. After the climbing, the return route leads through the steep grassy flank.
Good shoes for the walk back too
Descent
The descent on foot leads back down the steep grassy flank. Change into suitable shoes with a good tread for this section. Even after the well-protected rope lengths, the terrain demands attention and a sure foot.
When the grass is wet, the flank becomes particularly tricky. Factor in the ascent and descent when choosing the weather and conditions. On the way back, also make sure not to damage the livestock fence.
For first multi-pitch routes with a solid foundation
Requirements
- Secure climbing at grade 5a mandatory; according to the topo, sections up to 5c
- Basic knowledge of multi-pitch procedures and belay station organisation
- Reliable belaying and appropriate rope handling
- Sure-footedness in steep grassy terrain
- Good shoes for the approach and descent
- For initial MSL experience: expert guidance while procedures are not yet routine
Good protection makes the transition to multi-pitch climbing easier. The approach and descent also demand a secure grasp of steep terrain.
For rock and grassy slope
Equipment
- 1 × 50 m climbing rope for the described climbing route
- 10 quickdraws
- climbing harness, climbing helmet and climbing shoes
- belay device, screwgate carabiner, sling and personal anchor system
- Good approach shoes with a grippy sole
- Map and topo offline
- Weather-appropriate clothing, drinks and food
- When arriving by e-bike: helmet and sufficient battery charge
Good to know
Questions about climbing at Äbnet Wäg
How difficult is Äbnet Wäg?
The route overview lists 5b with 5a compulsory. In the linked detailed topo, the second and fourth pitches are graded 5c. Therefore, plan for sections up to 5c. The left direct start variant is 6a.
How many pitches does the route have?
Äbnet Wäg comprises five pitches. The standard start is 30 metres long, followed by three 25-metre sections and finally 15 metres according to the topo.
Is the route suitable for a first multi-pitch climb?
Yes, with appropriate climbing knowledge and safe procedures or experienced guidance. The route is very well equipped with bolt anchors. The approach and descent through the steep grassy flank require a sure foot.
How long is the approach walk?
From Stäfeli about 15 minutes are indicated. The drive to Stäfeli has to be added to that; Dani recommends the e-bike for it.
Which shoes do I need?
Good footwear with a grippy sole is important for the steep grassy slope on the ascent and descent. Climbing shoes alone are not sufficient for this type of tour.
Is a 50-metre rope enough?
For the climbing route, a single 50-metre rope is specified. This does not imply that every pitch can be abseiled back down directly: the standard first pitch is 30 metres long. For a retreat by abseil, the route and rope length must be checked separately.
Can the tour be combined with further climbing?
After Äbnet Wäg, you can continue climbing in the Äbnet climbing garden if time, strength and conditions permit.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Alpine route with a mountain guide
You want to climb Äbnet Wäg and consolidate your multi-pitch climbing skills at the same time? Together, we will plan the tour to match your ability. Along the way, we will practise stance procedures and efficient rope handling directly on the rock.
The next climbing day
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