Tours • Fürenalp • Multi-Pitch Climbing • Summer • Surenental

15 September 2026

Multi-pitch climbs · Engelberg

Fürenwand Climbing Engelberg – Routes, Approach and Topos

The Fürenwand is a roughly 500-metre-high limestone face above Engelberg. Alongside the demanding 6.4 Sec., there are moderate multi-pitch routes and the long SW face.

Here you can find the approach description and every route with the most important details. The corresponding topo can be opened directly in the respective box.

Difficulty: 6a–8b+
Length: 7–15 SL
boarding: From Fürenalp approx. 30 min
Entrance: approx. 1100 m
Season: March–November
Exhibition: South-west
Character: Limestone wall and cross-passages
Routes: 4 lines described

To get started

Access description

From Fürenalp

From the Fürenalp top station via the access path towards Fürenhochflueh. The map shows around 30 minutes to the sectors.

To the sectors

The overview shows the SW face, 6.4 seconds, and the routes to the right of the face. The start of the chosen line is marked on the relevant topo.

Orientation on the wall

Wall overview

All details for the respective route

Routes and topos

Alpine multi-pitch climbs

6.4 sec.

8b+

Length: 8 SL · 170 m
Compulsory.: 7c+
Material: 2 × 60 m; 10 quickdraws; Friend 0
First ascent: M. Trottmann, 2006

A steep, very difficult sport climbing route with a long traverse. Only a few climbers have completed it.

Insurance Sport climbing with wide spacing; good equipment.

Open Topo 6.4 sec.

Alpine multi-pitch climbs

Stefan’s Dream

Length: 9 SL
Compulsory.: 6b
Material: 2 × 50 m; Friends 1–3; nuts
First ascent: F. Thalmann / T. Schnider, 1986; refurbished in 2011

An interesting route with an alpine character that is rarely repeated.

Insurance Fine; add some expansion bolts where necessary.

Open Topo Stefan's Dream

Alpine multi-pitch climbs

Roly-poly toy

Length: 8 SL
Compulsory.: 6a+
Material: 2 × 50 m; Friend 1–3
First ascent: F. Thalmann / S. Felder, 1985; refurbished in 2011

A brilliant afternoon route, getting steeper and with better holds the higher you go.

Insurance Fine; add some expansion bolts where necessary.

Open the Topo roly-poly toy

Alpine multi-pitch climbs

SW wall

6a+

Length: 15 SL
Compulsory.: 6a
Material: 2 × 50 m; 12 quickdraws; camming devices, slings
First ascent: A. Würsch, 1986; renovated 2002

Old, partially bolted aid climbing route through the large face. Continuing to Fürenalp is possible.

Insurance Alpine; well bolted in hard pitches.

Open the topo SW wall

Plan the tour right to the end

Descent and return journey

The abseil routes are route-specific. At 6.4 sec., long intervals and a 60 m rope length are noted. On the SW face, continuing to Fürenalp can be more rewarding than a retreat; decide this before starting.

This is what you bring to the table

Requirements and character

The Fürenwand combines sport climbing with alpine terrain. The 6.4 sec requires a very high climbing margin. The more moderate lines are longer and in places only partially bolted with trad protection.

For climbing route and return path

Equipment

The route-specific equipment is in every route box. In addition, the personal equipment includes:

Helmet, climbing harness, climbing shoes and good approach shoes
2 × 50 m rope, belay and abseil device, slings and screwgate carabiners
Quickdraws and traditional protection to suit the route
Weather protection, headlamp, provisions and water

Additional knowledge

Frequently asked questions

Which route is the hardest?

6.4 sec. with 8b+ and 7c+ compulsory. It is steep and has wide bolt spacing.

Are the routes also possible in spring?

The wall faces south-west and warms up early. After rain or in cold temperatures, the higher areas can still be wet or windy.

How long is the approach walk?

From Fürenalp about 30 minutes. The approach time refers to the cliff face, not the journey in the valley.

Where can I find current opening hours?

The Fürenalp Cable Car ↗ publish the current times.

Dani Perret · IFMGA Mountain Guide

Fürenwand with mountain guide

Do you want to plan an alpine climbing tour? Write to me which routes you have already climbed and what you feel capable of. Together we will figure out which objective matches your experience and the conditions.