Multi-pitch routes · Brunni · Engelberg
Schild Schyegg climbing. Two half-day trips above Engelberg.
Climbing at Schild-Schyegg means: compact slabs, grippy flakes and water runnels on a south-facing rock face between the Brunni and Rugghubel huts. Vrenis Traum and Vrenissima offer two rewarding multi-pitch routes.
The approach from Ristis is manageable at around 45 minutes. Together with the short abseil piste, the routes are suitable as half-day tours. Those who still have time and energy can combine both lines or continue their climbing day on the Bettlerstock south face.
- Difficulty
- 5b–6b+
- Route length
- 4–6 pitches
- boarding
- from Ristis approx. 45 minutes
- Wand
- approx. 100 m
- Entrance
- approx. 2000 m
- Season
- March–November · depending on conditions
- Exhibition
- South
- Character
- Plates · Scales · Water grooves
The season depends on snow and dry rock conditions. There is a lot of edelweiss growing in the area: please leave it be and pay attention to the vegetation on the approach.
From the Ristis to the foot of the crag
Access description
Ristis – Direction Rigidalalp
From Ristis, the ascent leads towards Rigidalalp and further into the area between the Brunni and Rugghubel huts. The map shows the route up to below the rock slabs of Schyegg.
Away from the sign
The final section to the base of the wall is pathless. Follow the line marked on the map and use the rock face for orientation. The start is at roughly 2,000 metres; allow around 45 minutes from Ristis.
Choosing the right line
At the base of the wall, the starting options are close together. Compare the position with the topo before you start climbing. The direct start of Vrenissima is graded 6a; the easier start of Vrenis Traum is 4a.
Entrances, variations and return route
Topo Schild-Schyegg
The topo shows Vreni's dream, Vrenissima, start variants as well as the abseil piste and the descent on foot. The dashed line drawn on the right is labelled as a project.
Two lines with different standards
Climbing routes at Schild–Schyegg
Vreni's Dream is the easier route. Vrenissima demands significantly more climbing experience with an obligatory 6b. OBLIG. denotes the grade you should be able to climb safely between protection points.
Vreni's Dream
- Compulsory.
- 5b
- Hedging
- Very good · short intervals
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Additionally
- 10 quickdraws
A fine route with short pitches. Slabs alternate with well-holded flakes and water rills. Various options provide variety. The easier of the two lines is well-suited to consolidating existing multi-pitch skills.
First ascent: R. Amrein and S. Odermatt, 1991. Re-bolted.
Vrenissima
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Good · slightly longer intervals
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Additionally
- 10 quickdraws
Similar climbing style to Vrenis Traum, but with more slabs and significantly higher difficulties. Precise footwork and confident climbing between protection points are important.
First ascent: R. Amrein and S. Odermatt, 1992. Re-equipped.
Abseil or walk back down
Descent and abseiling piste
The abseil piste runs to the right of the climbing routes. Three abseil stages, each of 40 metres, are marked in the topo. Two 50-metre ropes therefore belong to the specified equipment.
Additionally, a footpath down is shown to the left of the wall. Assess its walkability on site and in light of the conditions. After the descent, the access path leads back to Ristis.
Consolidate existing MSL knowledge
Requirements
- Safe climbing within the mandatory grade of the chosen route
- Basic knowledge of multi-pitch climbing and belay station organisation
- Reliable belaying and independent abseiling
- Surefootedness on pathless approaches
- Navigation with map and topo
The good protection of Vrenis Traum supports practising, but does not replace safe rope technique. For first independent multi-pitch tours, the procedures should already be second nature. Vrenissima is aimed at significantly stronger climbers.
For climbing and the walk back
Equipment
- Two 50-metre ropes
- 10 quickdraws
- climbing harness, climbing helmet and climbing shoes
- belay and descender device
- locking carabiners, tape slings and personal tether
- Suitable approach shoes
- Topo and map offline
- Weather-appropriate clothing, drinks and food
Good to know
Questions about climbing at the Schild-Schyegg
Which route is suitable for consolidating initial multi-pitch climbing skills?
Vrenis Traum offers short pitches and very good protection with close spacing. Prerequisites are confident climbing at grade 5b as well as the necessary knowledge in belaying, building belay stations and abseiling.
How do the two routes differ?
Vrenis Traum is graded 5b and 5b compulsory over six pitches. Vrenissima offers four pitches up to 6b+, with 6b compulsory, more slab climbing and slightly longer run-outs between protection.
How long is the approach walk?
From Ristis, allow about 45 minutes. The final section to the foot of the wall has no path.
Can both routes be combined?
Yes, both lines lie in the same wall and can be easily linked together, provided the climbing standard, conditions and time reserves are suitable.
How does the descent take place?
To the right of the routes is an abseil piste with three 40-metre stages marked on the topo. A descent on foot is also marked to the left of the wall.
Which combination does Dani recommend?
Vrenis Traum as a half-day tour and climbing the Bettlerstock via the south face on the other half-day.
What do I need to bear in mind with the edelweiss?
Lots of edelweiss grow in the area. They are protected: do not pick them and look out for the vegetation on the way up and down.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Schild–Schyegg with mountain guide
You want to climb a route at Schild–Schyegg, but are not yet completely sure about the approach, route finding or protection? Together we will choose a line that suits your climbing level and the current conditions.
More climbing days around Engelberg
Similar climbing routes
Four further ideas for alpine climbing days. Length, approach and requirements differ from the Schild–Schyegg.
Mousetowers
Another climbing tour on the rock towers of the Musenalp.
View tour
Gross Walenstock North Ridge
Alpine rock scramble with a longer approach and an impressive summit destination.
View tour
Sunnigberggrat
Long ridge climb and pathless passages between Engelberg and Melchtal.
View tour
Lauchernstock «Messer»
Airy ridge climbing on a narrow rock edge.
View tour
