Icefalls · Fürenalp · Engelberg Valley
Ice climbing Bödmen
Below Alp Bödmen are ice and mixed lines with up to four pitches. The wall feels compact like a climbing garden, but gets steeper and more challenging towards the top. Besides the three Bödmen falls, you’ll find Homer and Marge as well as the Bart project and the line to Marge’s Zapfen.
- Difficulty
- WI4–6 · M7
- Length
- 55–130 m
- boarding
- 30 minutes
- Starting point
- Parking lot Fürenalpbahn
- Altitude
- Starting point 1160 m above sea level.
- Season
- December–February
- Aspect
- NO
- Character
- Icefalls · Mixed climbing
The main cases include 70–130 m and 1–4 SL. The margin is shorter by 55 m, and the beard by 60 m. The beard and the line to the tip of the margin are being pursued as projects.
Starting point and access
boarding
From the parking lot of the Fürenalpbahn you can reach the wall in 30 minutes. The wall overview organizes the lines below Alp Bödmen.
Assigning lines
Area and route overview
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
Left-wing Bödmenfall
- Length
- 90 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
The line becomes steeper upwards. The stands are dug out.
Middle Bödmenfall
- Length
- 120 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Stepped ice line with frequent difficult exit.
Right Bödmenfall
- Length
- 130 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
The upper wall section and especially the exit length are steep.
Homer
- Length
- 75 m
- Rope
- Material
- Friends in addition to the existing drill hooks
- Hedging
Mixed climbing in a snowfield. In addition to crampons, friends are required. The topo differentiates sections with M7, M5, M6 and WI5.
First ascent: S. Speck and M. Christen.
Margin
- Length
- 55 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Line on a pin.
First ascent: Speck and Burch.
Bart
- Length
- 60 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Project status line for the branch.
Project to carve out a margin
- Length
- 70 m
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Project line for pinching off the margin.
Plan the return journey
Descent
Use the rappel points in the sector topo for planning the return route. At the left side of the boulder fall, the stand locations have been dug out. Above the ice wall, a dashed line has been drawn.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
Avalanche danger must be explicitly taken into account. The difficulties increase in the upper part of the wall. When descending from the middle buttress, the exit is often perilous; when descending from the right buttress, the final rope length is steep.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Briefly answered
Questions about Bödmen
How long does it take to get to Bödmen?
From the Fürena cable car parking lot, the journey takes 30 minutes.
What difficulties do the three cases of bohmism present?
Left WI4 at 90 m, middle WI4+ at 120 m and right WI5 at 130 m.
Are the routes fully set up?
In the left-hand pitfall, the stands are dug out. For Homer, you need Friends in addition to the existing drill hooks. Evaluate the securing for each line separately.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a line or work on your technique in the ice and mixed-surface area? Write to me about your experience and the goal you are interested in.
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