Icefalls · Surenental · Engelbergertal
Ice climbing Surenental
In the Surenental, long icefalls lie between steep walls and short, flatter sections. Iceblume and Schöne Bescherung are among the longer lines described; Dark Side and Sunny Side differ significantly in their sunlight exposure. Access and avalanche conditions are part of the route selection here.
- Difficulty
- WI3–5 · depending on the route
- Length
- 80–240 m; No idea: 300 hm
- boarding
- 1.5–2 h
- Starting point
- Fürenalp / Fürenalpparkplatz
- Altitude
- Access points 1500–2000 m above sea level.
- Season
- November–April
- Aspect
- N to S
- Character
- Long icefalls · Skizustiege
The area overview includes icefalls that are 100–240 m long. By way of exception, Herrengrassen has 80 m; No idea overcomes 300 hm.
Starting point and access
boarding
The overview map shows the access from the Fürena parking lot and the options from the Fürenalp. The time for the area is stated as 1.5–2 hours. Dark Side and Sunny Side can be reached by ski from Fürenalp; on Sunny Side, there is a roughly 15-minute uphill climb with fells.
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
Ice flower
- Length
- 180 m · 6 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Ice line in a couloir. The avalanche danger is explicitly mentioned.
First ascent: F. Krummenacher and S. Speck, 2003.
Ice flower · Variant
- Length
- 180 m · 6 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
More difficult variant of the ice flower.
First ascent: S. Speck, 2003.
Beautiful gift
- Length
- 240 m · 7 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Longer ice route under the Spannorttürmen. Steeper steps alternate with flatter sections.
First ascent: O. Keiser and S. Speck, 2004.
Äbnet–Stäfelifall
- Length
- 105 m
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
South-facing line with increasing sunlight from the end of January.
Exposure: S
No idea
- Length
- 300 km · 10 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Long waterfall with moderate difficulty.
Men's grazing area
- Length
- 80 m
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Short stretches of ice that are often frozen when there is no ice elsewhere. The ascent by ski is long and arduous.
The Dark Side
- Length
- 7 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Two pitches reach WI4, the rest of the route is consistently WI3+. The narrow ice track runs through the wall without interrupted snowfields. The left direct pillar is WI5, the right variant is designated Chicken Line in the topo.
First ascent: Dani Perret and Julian Fürsinger, January 2022; direct pillar: Sämi Speck.
Sunny Side
- Length
- 4 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
SSE-oriented avalanche with four moderate pitches. The topo lists 40 m WI3 from the bottom, 40 m WI4, 25 m WI3+ and 40 m WI4. After a long period of cold and with little snow on the south side, this line is worth considering.
Exposition: SSE
Return journey: Climbing over the un-marked route or descending by steep grassy slopes; return by ski to the parking lot.
First ascent: Dani and Judith Perret, January 2021.
Sunnetiger
- Length
- 3 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
The columns and ice formations require technically varied climbing. The upper stands are dug into the ground.
First ascent: S. Speck and M. Burch, 01.02.2023.
Ice Dream
- Length
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Icefall above Spannorthütte; according to the area guide, it is still climbable until the end of winter. Further route data are missing.
Plan the return journey
Descent
From Sunny Side, you can either hike down the unmaintained route or climb up steep grassy slopes. Then you drive with skis to the parking lot. On Dark Side, some of the descents are prepared; the topo also shows foot descents. For the other lines, please follow the return directions in the respective topo.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
There is a risk of avalanches from the slopes above the icefalls. The Äbnet–Stäfelifall lies on the south side and receives sun from the end of January. Only ascend the Sunnetiger if the hanging cigar to the left of the second rope has already been broken off. The route receives sun approximately from 11:30 to 14:30.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Ice and mixed in detail
Insights into the routes
Briefly answered
Questions about Surenental
Can I go skiing to the ice caves?
For Dark Side and Sunny Side, the access by ski from Fürenalp is described. On Sunny Side, there is an additional uphill section of about 15 minutes with Fellen.
How are Dark Side and Sunny Side different?
Dark Side is located in a shady spot and leads through the wall without snow passages. Sunny Side is exposed to the SSE and usually receives all morning sun.
Is the Sunny Side set up for abseiling?
No. You either go over the unmaintained route or climb down steep grassy slopes on foot.
Which danger is particularly mentioned in Sunnetiger?
A cigar hangs from the left end of the second rope length. Do not climb up until it has already been broken off. The upper holds are drilled.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
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