Icefalls · Fürenalp · Engelberg Valley
Ice climbing Furwand
Along the summit wall, long ice lines run through the wall above Herrenrüti. Their formation is rare: Some lines are only present a few days a year, sometimes not at all. In addition to pure ice routes, Pastor and Tyte-Stone Buaba also offer challenging combined passages.
- Difficulty
- WI4–6 · up to M6+ / A0
- Length
- 425–465 m · depending on the route
- boarding
- 20 minutes
- Starting point
- Herrerüti
- Altitude
- Starting point 1120 m above sea level.
- Season
- December–February
- Aspect
- SWW · Tyte-Stone Buaba SSE
- Character
- Long icefalls · Mixed
The long wall is oriented 450 m and 9–10 SL. The individual routes are 425–465 m long. The wall is predominantly SW-facing; Tyte-Stone Buaba is located in an SSE-facing wall.
Starting point and access
boarding
You can reach the entrances in 20 minutes. The overview of the wall shows the location of Iceaholic, Shang-Rila, Pastor and Schnudernase.
Assigning lines
Area and route overview
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
Iceaholic
- Length
- 425 m · 9 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Ice screws, band ties
- Hedging
The detailed drawing shows long steep ice passages up to WI6. Spritzwasser is common. After exiting the vehicle, you will ascend to the Fürenalp mountain station.
First ascent: S. Speck and M. Müller, 22.12.2001.
Shang-Rila
- Length
- 465 m · 10 SL
- Rope
- Material
- Hedging
Long ice line in the left wall area. The location of the individual ice levels and standing places is shown in detail in the topo map.
First ascent: S. Speck and U. Nietlisbach, 02.01.2002.
Pastor
- Length
- 6 SL plus project
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Ice screws, band ties
- Hedging
A horizontal roof in the middle section is technically achieved by climbing up to the A0 level. The continuation is a project.
First ascent: Julian Fürsinger and Dani Perret.
Snout nose
- Length
- 465 m · 10 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
With persistent cold and high fog, an ice line can form across the entire wall. The mostly thin ice leads over steeper steps and a cross-over after the hunter band. There is one drill hook at each of the two stations; a short safety device is possible on the cross-over at the climbing wall.
First ascent: Dani Perret and Donat Bischof, March 2018.
Tyte-Stone Buaba
- Length
- 10 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- For the crack, add Cams 0.5–2, possibly wedges
- Hedging
A long ice and mixed line at the Fürenhochflueh. In the middle section is a equipped rock climbing route with tooling cracks. This can be supplemented with cams 0.5–2 and possibly pegs. There are drill hooks in front of the ice curtain; the lower holds are equipped with one drill hook each.
Exposition: SSE
First ascent: Dani Perret, Donat Bischof and Julian Fürsinger, January 2021.
Plan the return journey
Descent
After the continuous hiking routes, you go to the Fürenalp mountain station and take the Fürenalpbahn down into the valley. Pastor includes six climbing routes and a continuation of the project. Plan the descent separately for this line.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
Cold and sunlight determine whether the ice lines form and persist. Pay particular attention to the afternoon sun. In the SSE-exposed Tyte-Stone Buaba, large ice formations can break off around the end of January when the sun is shining and temperatures are rising.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Ice and mixed in detail
Insights into the routes
Briefly answered
Questions about the curtain wall
How often do icefalls form?
The long lines form only on a few days of the year. In some winters they are completely absent.
How does the descent take place?
After the continuous hiking routes, you go to the Fürenalp mountain station and take the train into the valley. For Pastor with his project continuation, you need to plan the retreat separately.
Which route includes a mixed rope length?
Tyte-Stone Buaba is rated WI5 and M6+. The crack in the center section is reinforced and can be supplemented with additional mobile reinforcements.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a line or work on your technique in the ice and mixed-surface area? Write to me about your experience and the goal you are interested in.
Further in the tour database
