Alpine climbing · Brunni · Engelberg
Brunni Mountain School Circuit – Climbing above Engelberg
The Brunni alpine climbing school circuit combines multi-pitch climbing on the Schild with alpine ascents on the Scheyeggstock, the Spitzmann and the Rigidalstock. In between lie grassy ridges, easy climbing sections and airy ridge passages – a varied round starting from the Brunnihütte.
The difficulties reach up to 6a+, with 5c compulsory. With around 15 pitches and many additional metres of climbing and scrambling, the tour makes for a long day despite the moderate grades. Approximately eight hours should be allowed for the entire round; a swift rope team procedure is crucial.
- Difficulty
- 6a+ · 5c OBLIG.
- Length
- approx. 15 pitches + ridge terrain
- Total duration
- approx. 8 hours
- Starting point
- Brunni Hut
- Highest point
- Rigidalstock · approx. 2599 m
- Season
- June to October · depending on conditions
- Aspect
- South to south-east
- Character
- Multi-pitch climbing · Ridge · Scrambling
The time given applies to the whole tour. Snow, wet conditions, route finding and the pace on the ridge significantly influence the duration.
From the Brunni hut to the Schild
Access description
Starting point Brunnihütte
The round trip starts and finishes at the Brunnihütte. The overview topo indicates an approach time to the Schild of approximately 30 minutes.
For starters at the sign
Use the map and overview topo as a guide. The final section leads over pathless terrain to the foot of the wall. Stick to the marked line and watch out for the vegetation.
Identify the start of the circular route
The tour starts via Vreni's Traum at the sign. Compare the start with the detailed topo of the round tour: there the lowest pitch is graded 4b.
Wall steps and hip joints
Topo Brunni Mountain School Circular Route
The overview topo shows the connection from the Schild via the Scheyeggstock to the Spitzmann and Rigidalstock. The detailed topo adds the pitches in the lower and middle sections. Both belong together for orientation.
A multi-section round
The climbing tour
Brunni Mountain School Circuit
- Compulsory.
- 5c
- Hedging
- Very well bolted in the pitches
- quickdraws
- 13
- Hitchhike
- Additional alpine safety work
An alpine rock-climbing and mountaineering tour with varied demands: bolted pitches, walking terrain, down-climbing sections and ridge climbing. The rock is loose in places; careful choice of holds and a confident handling of loose rock are part of it.
Schild / Vrenis Traum: R. Amrein and S. Odermatt, 1991; bolted by Fredi Krummenacher. Scheyeggstock South Ridge, two towers: Martina Schmitter and Dani Perret, spring 2018.
Schild – Vreni's Dream
The first pitches lead through the rock slabs on the Schild. After that, a grassy ridge connects the lower wall with the next steep section. It is worth checking the overview topo already here so that the continuation is clear.
Scheyeggstock – the towers
The crux is in the first pitch on the second tower and is graded 6a+. This is followed by further pitches up to 5b+. The circuit leads via the risers without fully ascending the Scheyeggstock; the onward route runs via the ramp marked on the topo.
Spitzmann – Rigidalstock
Over scrambling terrain you head to the Spitzmann and then onwards to the Rigidalstock. Here, ridge climbing and down-climbing alternate. The overview topo shows, among other things, a ten-metre down-climbing spot on the north side as well as passages up to 4a. Even after the hardest pitches, concentration and time are still required.
Back from the Rigidalstock
Descent to the Brunnihütte
From the Rigidalstock, the descent is via the via ferrata back to the Brunnihütte. In the overview topo, this section is rated K2 and takes about an hour.
The descending sections between Spitzmann and Rigidalstock are still part of the actual circular tour. Allow a buffer for these, just as you would for the final via ferrata descent.
For experienced, fast rope teams
Requirements
- Secure climbing at grade 5c compulsory; isolated sections up to 6a+
- Routine in multi-pitch routes and efficient belay station organisation
- Experience in alpine ridge terrain and downclimbing
- Surety of foot on steep grassy ridges and in places on loose rock
- Independent navigation with map and topo
- Stamina for a roughly eight-hour mountain hike and spare time
The bolt protection in the pitches does not turn ridge traverses into fully bolted sport climbing routes. Belaying techniques and rope management must be adapted to the respective terrain.
For rope lengths, ridge and return path
Equipment
- Climbing rope – check the required length before the trip, see note below
- 13 quickdraws
- Climbing harness, helmet and climbing shoes
- belay and abseil device, screwgate carabiner and webbing slings
- Equipment for ridge belaying and via ferrata descent
- Suitable footwear for approaches, ridge terrain and descents
- Map and both topos offline
- Weather-appropriate clothing, headtorch, drinks and food
Good to know
Questions about the Brunni Bergschule circular walk
Is the circular tour suitable for beginners?
It is aimed at experienced, fast mountaineers and climbers. Alongside a compulsory grade of 5c, routine in ridge terrain, downclimbing and route-finding is required.
How long does the Brunni mountain school circular tour take?
Approximately eight hours are indicated for the entire round starting from the Brunnihütte. Depending on the rope team's pace and conditions, it can take significantly longer.
Where is the crux?
The first pitch on the second tower is graded 6a+. Take your time there to spot the line. The mandatory grade of the round tour is 5c.
Are all the summits fully climbed?
The route links the ascents of the Scheyeggstock with Spitzmann and Rigidalstock. The Scheyeggstock is not fully climbed in the process.
How do you get back to the Brunni hut?
From the Rigidalstock, the descent leads via the via ferrata marked as K2 in the overview topo to the Brunnihütte. Allow approximately one hour for this.
Is a 50-metre rope enough?
This is not certain due to the contradictory information: the materials list specifies 50 metres, while the detailed topo contains 55-metre rope lengths. The required rope length must be clarified before the tour.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Brunni mountain school circular tour with mountain guide
Would you like to do the Brunni Bergschule circular tour with a mountain guide? Together we will discuss your experience, your climbing level and your pace. From this we can determine whether the whole tour suits you and the current conditions.
The next climbing day
Similar climbing routes
Further ideas for climbing days and ridge traverses around Engelberg. Compare the requirements and length with your experience.
Lauchern–Rigidalstock
Another alpine crossing via Engelberg.
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Sättelistock South-East Face
Several climbing routes through the striking south-east face.
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Lauchernstock South Face
Versatile routes and exciting combinations on the south face.
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Gross Walenstock North Ridge
Alpine ridge climbing with an impressive summit destination.
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