Alpine climbing · Walegg · Brunni
Great Whale Rock North Ridge – from the Whale Rock over the Whale Ridge
At the Walengrat, the grassy slopes, rock steps, and exposed climbing areas change. The ridge runs from the Walegg over the Rund to the Gross Walenstock and combines plenty of activity in easy terrain with sections up to IV difficulty. Those who join the ascent to the Rigidalstock experience a long and varied day on the mountain. For a sport climbing tour, the terrain is too diverse; here, secure and agile mountaineering is the whole team’s responsibility.
- Summit
- Gross Walenstock · 2572 m
- Difficulty
- WS · Climbing pitches up to IV
- Time required
- Approximately 6–7 hours for crossing
- Access from Brunni
- Approximately 2 hours to Walegg
- Access from Bannalp
- Approximately 1½ hours to Walegg
- North ridge
- Approximately 620 m elevation difference from Walegg
- Continuation
- Over the ridge to the Rigidalstock
- Descent
- Rigidalstockgrat climbing trail towards Brunni
The times are guidelines for a swift, experienced team. The starting point, rope securing, conditions, and return route determine the actual time required. The start from Bannalp and the end at Brunni require appropriate planning for the return journey.
Understand the line
Map and Topos
The map shows the access routes from Brunni and Bannalp and the continuation to the Rigidalstock. The photo-topo divides the north ridge into the rock steps up to the Rund and the further ridge to the Gross Walenstock.
Save maps and topo maps offline before the tour. The drawings show the route; glacier status, snow conditions, closures, and safety equipment may change.
From the starting point to the summit
Route description
To Walegg
From the Brunnihütte via the Whale Path to the Walegg. Alternatively, the ascent from the Bannalp via the Oberfeld area leads to the pass. Both approaches require time and elevation gain; the climbing tour only begins above the Walegg.
From Walegg to Rund
Climb up the first rock steps over your back and along the line drawn on the topo map to the round. The sections here are marked as IV. On the first rock ridge, independent securing is particularly important; further up, individual drill hooks are present.
Over the ridge to Gross Walenstock
From the ridge to the summit. Easier sections are alternated with climbing pitches of III and III+. Even there, the partly grassy and exposed terrain requires a suitable safety system. The difficulty of a single pitch says little about the pace of the entire climbing team.
The return is part of the tour
Descent and return journey
The ascent presented here continues from Gross Walenstock via the ridge to the Rigidalstock. The climbing is easier there, at grade II, but remains alpine. From the Rigidalstock via the climbing route on the Rigidalstock ridge intended for the descent towards the Brunnihütte back. The climbing on the Rigidalstock wall is only done during ascent and is not the return route of this ascent.
What matters
Key points and conditions
The route requires dry rock and dry grassy passages. Moisture, snow residue, and fog increase the difficulty of climbing and navigating the route. Existing climbing hooks do not make this a fully equipped sport climbing route.
The continuation to the Rigidalstock and the descent on the climbing route are included in the time and material plan. Check the current condition and the opening of the facilities. Leave reserve for the final stretch if using the train.
The planners are assisted by Current situation around Engelberg. Re-check the weather, snow conditions and local advice before starting.
In keeping with the entire route
Equipment and requirements
- Helmet, harness, alpine rope, safety device, loops and mobile safety devices.
- Shoes for long ascents and grassy terrain; climbing boots depending on personal safety at the rock sites.
- Climbing set for the planned descent via the Rigidalstockgrat climbing route.
- Map and photo book offline, headlamp, weather protection, first aid and plenty of water.
- Safe climbing up to IV with reserve, no vertigo and efficient rope handling.
Dani Perret · IFMGA Mountain Guide
My tip
The plan from the beginning: After the Gross Walenstock, there are still some gentle slopes, Rigidalstock and the descent. The most beautiful crossing remains relaxed, if the team still has time and concentration left for it.
Insights into the terrain
Photos of the tour
Frequently asked questions
Is this a multi-day route?
The north ridge contains several climbing passages, but as a whole it is an alpine climbing and mountain tour with grass, hiking trails, and rock.
Which route leads down from the Rigidalstock?
Choose the Rigidalstockgrat climbing route for the descent. The Rigidalstockwand climbing route is only intended for ascent.
Can I start from the Bannalp?
Yes. The access to Walegg is a little shorter from there. If you exceed the limit to Brunni, the start and return must coincide.
Local travel. Personally guided.
Big Walenstock North Ridge with mountain guide
Would you like to take this guided tour? We will discuss your experience, the appropriate date, and the current conditions. On the offer page, you will find the itinerary, the services, and the option to book or make an inquiry.
