Alpine climbing · Bödmen · Engelberg
Monster scale climbing Engelberg – five pitches in Bödmen
The Monsterschuppe in Bödmen is an eye-catcher even from the hiking trail near Herrenrüti. Anyone who goes climbing here will find five varied pitches on large flakes and a prominent crack-dihedral – a small alpine adventure near Engelberg.
Part of the route needs to be protected traditionally: belay stations and a few intermediate bolts are in place, and you place cams and nuts in between. The start is loose, and the middle section is dusty in places. Higher up, rewarding climbing awaits experienced rope teams who appreciate this style.
- Difficulty
- 6c · 6b COMP.
- Length
- 5 pitches
- boarding
- from Fürenalp car park approx. 15 minutes
- Hedging
- Semi-Clean · Cams and Wedges
- Altitude
- c. 1120–1320 m
- Season
- June to October · depending on conditions
- Aspect
- Northeast
- Character
- flaking · crack intersection
The first pitch is loose. The rock requires a careful assessment of holds and mobile protection in the subsequent pitches as well.
From the Fürenalp car park to the base of the wall
Access description
walking trail towards Bödmen
From the car park at the Fürenalp cable car, follow the hiking trail towards Bödmen and the ice-climbing wall. The entire approach takes about 15 minutes.
Use the forest cabin for orientation
The start is located approximately 50 metres to the right of the forest cabin by a large rock. Compare the position with the map and the topo.
Recognise the normal entry point
The first anchor and a crumbling pillar are visible from the start. The normal line begins on the right and is graded 5c in the topo. To the left of this is the start variant marked with a dashed line, «Alpin».
Flaking, crack and exit
Topo Monsterschuppe Bödmen
The topo shows the five pitches of the main route, the left-hand start variation and instructions for abseiling. Note the information regarding large cams, slings and the belay stance to be swung into.
On the way at the Monster Scale
Gallery
Insights into flake and crack climbing, as well as the exposed sections. Click on the pictures to enlarge them.
Mobile backups are part of it
The climbing route
Monster scale
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Semi-clean · few intermediate hooks
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Cams
- 0.2–4 · 1–3 double
Drilled belay stations and individual bolts supplement the mobile protection. Large cams are used on the flakes and in the crack-cum-dihedral; nuts and slings also belong in the gear.
First ascent: Spring 2020, Thierry Frommenwiler, D. Niederberger, a friend of Lisa and D. Perret.
Fragile start · 5c, 50 m
The first pitch starts sandy and leads past a loose tower. Choose holds, footholds and protection carefully. In the upper section, a traverse leads to the belay.
The two pitch lengths · 6b+ and 6b
The first pitch is 35 metres long at grade 6b+, and the second is 45 metres long at grade 6b. A variety of cams, especially large sizes, and slings are required for these sections.
Crack intersection · 6c, 45 m
The most demanding pitch follows a prominent crack-dihedral. Large cams complement the existing bolt anchors. Alongside climbing technique, routine in placing and assessing protection is required.
Exit · 6a, 30 m
The final pitch leads to the belay at a tree. From there, the abseil route marked in the topo begins.
Left-hand entry variant «Alpine»
The left-hand variant is marked as 6a over 50 metres, followed by 5b over 40 metres. It joins the main line above the second flake pitch. The alpine character requires an independent assessment of the rock and protection.
Abseiling in steep terrain
Descent and abseiling
The return journey is made by abseiling. In the topo, 50-metre indications are noted at the belay by the tree and in the area above the flakes. Two 50-metre ropes are among the specified equipment.
An anchor must be pendulated to when abseiling. Memorise its location during the ascent and plan the rope routing and further return route using the topo and the existing equipment. After reaching the base of the wall, the approach path leads back to the Fürenalp car park.
For experienced alpine climbers
Requirements
- Safe climbing at grade 6b compulsory; difficulties up to 6c
- Experience with cams, nuts and the assessment of mobile protection points
- Routine in crack and fissure climbing
- Careful climbing in loose and in places dusty rock
- Secure rope management in long, traversing pitches
- Experience in abseiling in overhang terrain and reaching staggered belays
The short approach should not disguise the demanding nature of the route. This tour requires independent belaying and alpine experience.
For mobile security
Equipment
- 2 × 50 m rope
- Set of cams in sizes 0.2–4; sizes 1–3 in duplicate
- Keile
- Quickdraws and extendable runners to match the topo
- Slings, screwgate carabiners and personal lanyard
- climbing harness, climbing helmet and climbing shoes
- belay and rappel device with backup equipment
- Suitable approach shoes
- Offline map and topo, weather-appropriate clothing, drinks and food
Good to know
Questions about the Monster Scale in Bödmen
How difficult is the monster scale?
The main line offers five pitches up to 6c, with 6b compulsory. In addition, there is traditional gear and loose rock in places.
Is the route fully bolted?
No. The belay stations and a few intermediate peg anchors are drilled. You protect the rest yourself using cams, nuts and slings.
Which cams do I need?
A set in sizes 0.2 to 4 is planned, with sizes 1 to 3 duplicated. Large cams are particularly important on the flakes and in the crack corner.
How do I get started?
From the Fürenalp car park, follow the hiking trail towards Bödmen and the ice climbing wall. The starting point is about 50 metres to the right of the mountain hut by a large stone. The first bolt and a loose pillar are visible.
How long is the approach walk?
From the Fürenalp car park it is stated to be about 15 minutes.
What is important when descending?
Take two 50-metre ropes and follow the abseil route in the topo. One belay station must be swung across to when abseiling; this requires appropriate experience.
Is there an entry-level version?
To the left lies the variant described in the topo as «alpine», graded 6a over 50 metres and 5b over 40 metres. It joins the main line above the flakes.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Monster scale with mountain guide
Would you like to climb the Monsterschuppe and deepen your experience with traditional gear placement? Together we will check your climbing level, your experience and the current conditions to plan the tour accordingly.
The next climbing day
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