Pleasure climbing · Musenalp · Niederrickenbach
Musentürme climbing – nine pitches to the Musenalp
Climbing on the Musentürme combines airy pleasure climbing with a small alpine adventure above the Engelberg valley. The route leads over three towers and offers nine varied pitches up to 6a. Particularly impressive is the striking crack in the middle of the route.
The limestone is solid for the most part, but also loose in places and interspersed with some vegetation. The route is very well bolted. The approach through steep forest remains demanding: route finding and sure-footedness are just as important here as the climbing itself.
- Difficulty
- 6a · 5c COMPULSORY.
- Length
- 9 pitches
- boarding
- approx. 45–60 minutes
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Entrance
- approx. 1520 m
- Season
- April–November · depending on conditions
- Aspect
- West
- boarding character
- Steep forest · parts T5
The approach map states 45 minutes; for a first visit, about an hour plus a buffer for finding the way is sensible. Season and accessibility depend on snow, moisture and current conditions.
Route finding is part of the tour
Access description
Niederrickenbach – Richtung Buochserhorn
You reach the starting point with the Dallenwil–Niederrickenbach aerial cableway. From Niederrickenbach, following the map, you first take the hiking trail via Steinrüti towards Buochserhorn.
Stream bed and steep forest
The detailed map shows a section of the stream bed about 130 metres long. After that, faint paths and cairns lead further through the steep forest. Red markings help in places, but are not continuously present.
For starters, cross
Towards the end you briefly cross through a ditch and climb steeply to the start point. The terrain reaches T5 in places and requires a sure foot as well as a sense of direction. The start point is marked on the map at around 1,520 metres at 675’976 / 198’079 (LV03).
The line over the towers
Topo Musentürme
The overview shows the route on the Musentürme between Grind and Stollen. The detailed topo supplements the pitches, transitions and neighbouring lines.
On the move above the Engelberger Tal
Musentürme Gallery
Insights into the climbing trip. Click on pictures to enlarge.
Pleasure climbing with an alpine character
The climbing route
Mousetowers
- Compulsory.
- 5c
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Rope
- 1 × 50 m
- Material
- 13 quickdraws
The route links the three towers with varied climbing sections and exposed traverses. Technical passages alternate with easier terrain. Despite the good protection, the tour remains alpine in places.
The materials list uses the 13 quickdraws from the route description; the topo specifies 12.
The lower towers
The first pitches offer varied limestone climbing. At the transitions between the towers, careful route-finding and appropriate rope management are required alongside climbing technique.
The striking crack
The crux is in the prominent crack in the middle of the route. The climbing here is particularly exposed and impressive, with good protection.
On exit
After the further pitches you reach the exit near the Musenalp. Right to the end, watch out for partly loose rock and the vegetation in individual sections.
Back from the Musenalp by cable car
Descent and return journey
From the exit you can reach the Musenalp in about five minutes. From there you can take the Musenalp cable car back down to Niederrickenbach and look at the climbing line again from the air.
For the further journey back down to the valley, you take the Niederrickenbach–Dallenwil aerial cableway. Check the operating times of both cable cars before the trip and allow extra time for the ascent, the climb and a break on the alpine pasture.
Good protection, demanding approach
Requirements
- Secure climbing at grade 5c compulsory; crux up to 6a
- Basic MSL routine or expert guidance
- Reliable securing and orderly procedures at the stand
- Surefootedness in steep terrain up to T5
- Navigation with map and faint tracks
- Stamina for nine pitches and plenty of time in hand
For sport climbers around the 6a grade with alpine experience, the route is a worthwhile objective. Anyone who feels unsure about steep, pathless approaches should plan the tour with an experienced companion.
For climbing and forest approaches
Equipment
- 1 × 50 m climbing rope
- 13 quickdraws
- climbing harness, climbing helmet and climbing shoes
- belay device, screwgate carabiner, sling and personal anchor system
- Good shoes with a grippy sole for the steep approach
- Access route map and topo offline
- Weather-appropriate clothing, drinks and food
Good to know
Questions about climbing at the Musentürme
How difficult are the Muse Towers?
The route comprises nine pitches up to 6a, with 5c compulsory. It is very well bolted, but has an alpine character in places.
How strenuous is the approach?
The steep forest approach reaches T5 in places. Trail traces, cairns and red markings are not continuously present. On a first visit, allowing extra time for route-finding is sensible.
How long is the approach walk?
The map states 45 minutes. Plan for about an hour from Niederrickenbach and, if necessary, extra time for navigation.
How is the rock quality?
For large stretches you climb on solid limestone. In places the rock is loose, and individual sections are somewhat overgrown.
Where is the crux?
In the prominent crack in the middle of the route. This exposed section is well protected and is one of the most impressive parts of the tour.
Can I go back by train?
From the exit, it is about five minutes to Musenalp. From there, the Musenalp cable car goes to Niederrickenbach. For the subsequent descent to Dallenwil, there is a second cable car. Check the respective operating hours.
Is the tour suitable for a first-time MSL experience?
With a suitable climbing grade and expert guidance, multi-pitch techniques can be consolidated here. However, the demanding approach requires a sure foot in alpine terrain.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Spire climbs with a mountain guide
Would you like to climb the Musentürme and have support with the approach or multi-pitch procedures? Together we will work on rope technique, belay station organisation and efficient climbing. We will plan the tour to match your ability and alpine experience.
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View tourRock-climbing tour Musenalp «Musentürme»
Contents
Above Dallenwil, high over the Engelbergertal, this varied climbing tour leads across the Musentürme. The route combines enjoyable pleasure climbing with an alpine atmosphere and magnificent plunging views down into the valley.
Thanks to its sunny aspect, the tour is particularly suitable for spring and autumn. The climbing is mostly on solid limestone, but in places it also has a somewhat alpine character. Time and again, airy sections provide an impressive climbing experience.
A special highlight is the prominent crack in the middle of the route. The climbing here is wonderfully exposed and ranks among the most impressive sections of the entire tour.
Tour details
- Grade: 6a
- Pleasure climbing
- Approach: approx. 60 minutes
- Season: April to November
- Length: 9 pitches
- Start: approx. 1,500 m above sea level.
- Exposition: West
Pleasure climbing over three towers
The route connects the three well-proportioned Musentürme towers to create a varied rock-climbing tour. The difficulties remain moderate and the climbing is mostly technical and enjoyable.
The combination of solid limestone, airy passages and the view over the Engelbergertal makes the Musentürme an ideal destination for ambitious pleasure climbers.
key passage
The hardest section is located in the prominent crack in the middle of the route. The climbing here is airy, exposed and at the same time very well protected. For many rope parties, this is the most impressive pitch of the entire tour.
boarding
The approach is arguably the actual crux of the tour.
From Niederrickenbach you climb up through steep woodland towards the Musentürme. Red waymarks and cairns help with navigation in places, though not all the way. The path is only faintly discernible in places and requires a certain amount of intuition.
The approach is partly in the T5 grade range. Towards the end, there is a short traverse through a gully followed by a steep ascent to the start of the climb.
First-time visitors to the route should allow plenty of time for wayfinding.
Hedging
The route is well-equipped.
- 1 × 50 m rope
- 13 quickdraws
are sufficient for an inspection.
Despite good protection, the route remains an alpine undertaking. Consideration for nature, wildlife and alpine pastures is expected.
Arrival
The Musentürme are usually reached from Niederrickenbach. The cable car significantly shortens the approach and also makes the tour attractive as a half-day undertaking.
Who is it suitable for?
The Musentürme are suitable for local climbers who enjoy a little adventure right on their doorstep. Thanks to the good protection and moderate difficulties, the route is ideal for sport climbers in the 6a grade range.
The tour is less suitable for people with little alpine experience or who are unsure about ascents in pathless terrain.
Out with a mountain guide
The Musentürme are ideal for climbers who want to gain their first experience in multi-pitch climbing or further develop their technique in alpine terrain.
Together we will work on rope techniques, belay station organisation and efficient climbing on multi-pitch routes.
FAQ
How difficult is the approach really?
The approach through the forest should not be underestimated, but is quite manageable for people with a bit of intuition. If it is your first time there, you certainly won't manage the approach «onsight».
Is the rock good?
For the most part yes. Partly the rock is a bit loose and there is some botany in the route, which is mostly not annoying though.
Can I take the little train down?
Yes, once you arrive on the Musenalp (5 mins from the exit) you can eat a cheese slice and comfortably take the gondola back down to Niederrickenbach. That way you can look at the climbed route again from the air.
Useful links
Further climbing routes in the region
- Gross Walenstock North Ridge
- Nünalphorn Sunnigberggrat
- Lauchernstock East Ridge knife edge
- Lauchern-Rigidalstock Crossing
My review
Scenery: ★★★★☆
Rock quality: ★★☆☆☆
Protection: ★★★★★
Adventure: ★★★★☆
Approach: ★★☆☆☆
Overall impression: ★★★☆☆
My Tip & Conclusion
The Musentürme are particularly worthwhile in spring and autumn. On hot summer days, the south-west-facing aspect can quickly become warm. After longer periods of rain, it is worth paying special attention to the approach.
The Musentürme are a hidden spot above Dallenwil. Those who master the demanding approach are rewarded with airy climbing, beautiful views and a surprisingly varied route. The striking crack in the middle of the route and the descent with the great cable car in particular will remain in your memory for a long time.
