Alpine climbing · North and north-west faces · Engelberg
Titlis North Face Climbing – Routes, Topos and Approach
Titlis North Face climbing stands for long, steep and often overhang multi-pitch routes. Between PlaySir, Lochblick and extreme lines like Piz dal Nas or Hattori Hanzo lie very different challenges – what they have in common is the alpine environment and the high demands placed on the rope team.
The difficulties of the routes described here range from 6b+ to 8b+. Alongside strength and endurance, they require safe rope technique, supplementary protection and a well-planned return route. Even the comparatively easier lines are serious north face tours.
- Difficulties
- 6b+ to 8b+
- Route length
- 6–18 pitches · depending on the route
- boarding
- approx. 2 hours · plus additional depending on the starting point
- Hedging
- Dependent on route · often supplemented
- Entry points
- around 2000 m · depending on the route
- Season
- June–September · depending on conditions
- Exhibition
- North / North-West
- Character
- Steep face · overhangs · alpine terrain
Grades, protection and material are route-specific. The information reflects the route documentation provided and does not confirm the current condition of pitons, fixed ropes or abseil anchors.
Via Hohfad to the foot of the wall
Access description
Fürenalp car park – Hohfad
From the car park at the Fürenalpbahn, the marked access route leads via the Sulzwald towards Hohfad. Use the map for the route through the lower part of the approach.
On track traces to the wall
Above Hohfad, the route follows faint tracks to Galtibergboden and on to the base of the cliff face. As a rough guide, about two hours is stated. Terrain, snow and route-finding can significantly affect the time.
On the selected sector
The entry points are distributed over a wide wall section. The map shows an additional traverse of approximately 30 minutes between entry areas. Compare your route with the wall overview and the corresponding topo.
Find the sector first
Titlis North Face overview
Targeted opening of eight topics
Topos to choose from
Choose a route or a sector. The preview shows the whole JPG; open the original file for small labels. You can unfold several topos to compare them.
Central wall sectorDuracel · Piz dal Nas · Land ohne Herren · Colibri · Hattori Hanzo · Pipistrello · Süpervitamin · Rapunzel
The thunder of the Avalanches7a+ · 18 pitches
PlaySir6b+ · 14 pitches
Leeperhammer7c (proposed) · 13 pitches
little lake journey6c+ · 9 pitches
Riffshark8a · 9 pitches
Small Sword7a+ · 11 pitches
Lochblick & Der Küchenmeister7a+ / 7b · 12 / 6 pitches
There is no separate detailed topo available here for Stubby & Charlie or Size Matters. Their route data is below; the appropriate current topo is also required for an ascent.
Difficulty, protection and equipment
Climbing routes on the Titlis North Face
The data boxes help with comparison. OBLIG. denotes the mandatory climbing grade. In the case of long or very steep lines, the abseil route is already part of the route choice.
The thunder of the Avalanches
- Compulsory.
- 6c
- Hedging
- Alpine · few intermediate protection points
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Friends 0.5–3 · Keile
A long adventure route. Good rock alternates in the middle section with grassy ledges and loose passages; the upper wall offers particularly rewarding climbing.
First ascent: B. Rathmayr and R. Ruhstaller, 1995–2004.
PlaySir
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Friends 1–3
Long route with a steep exit corner. The topo indicates a lateral transition at the upper abseil anchor and just under 50 metres.
First ascent: B. Krummenacher and S. Suhner, 2004.
Duracell
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- 10 quickdraws
Partly severely overhanging climbing on sharp rock. Freshly recharged energy reserves help in this sustained wall route.
First ascent: M. Wicky, R. Rudolf, T. Dolinger, B. Krummenacher and M. von Arx, 2016.
Piz dal Nas
- Compulsory.
- 7b
- Hedging
- Good · complement · long intervals
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- Friends 1–3 · Cam set
From the fifth pitch the route becomes steep. A bivouac site is marked after the eighth pitch; check water availability before planning accordingly.
First ascent: M. Jaggi and M. Trottmann, 2010.
Land without masters
- Compulsory.
- 6c+
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- Friends 1.5 and 2
Steep climbing on good rock. The demanding wall sections require stamina and secure supplementary protection.
First ascent: B. Rathmayr and R. Ruhstaller, 2006.
Hummingbird
- Compulsory.
- 7a
- Hedging
- Good · customisable
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Cams 0.4–1
A demanding slab is followed by catchy climbing on the upper wall. The return is via abseiling down the route.
First ascent: B. Rathmayr and R. Ruhstaller, 2014.
Hattori Hanzo
- Compulsory.
- not specified
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- Friends 0.5–1
Extremely difficult wall climbing up to 8b+. A route for rope teams with a corresponding sporting level and experience in long overhangs.
First ascent: M. Trottmann, 2015.
Pipistrelle
- Compulsory.
- 6b+
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Cams 0.3–2 · Kevlar sling
Grey slabs with sharp little cracks alternate with steeply overhanging, positive wall sections.
First ascent: B. Rathmayr, R. Ruhstaller and P. von Känel, 2017.
Supervitamin
- Compulsory.
- 6c+
- Hedging
- Good · customisable
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Friends 1–2
The direct variant is given as 7b+. The upper two pitches are heavily overhanging; when abseiling, the route-specific notes must be observed.
First ascent: B. Rathmayr and R. Ruhstaller, 2012.
Rapunzel
- Compulsory.
- 6c
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- Clarify rope length
- Material
- Cams 0.3–1
A steep, consistently demanding line. The table mentions 2 × 50 m, but the sector topo includes a 55-metre pitch. Clarify pitch lengths and the return route before starting.
First ascent: M. Trottmann, Winterleiter, Schwab and Wernonig, 2015.
Small Sword
- Compulsory.
- 6c
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- Clarify rope length
- Material
- Friends 1–4
A wall classic with a changing climbing style. The table states 2 × 50 m, the detailed topo a 52-metre pitch. Clarify the intended route and pitch lengths in advance.
First ascent: M. Trottmann and T. Scheuner, 2009.
Loch view
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Very good · many bolts
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Personal climbing equipment
Rated more moderately than many neighbouring routes, but still a demanding north face tour. Steep climbing on good rock.
First ascent: F. Enz, T. Hänseler, J. Speck and S. Speck, 2010.
The Head Chef
- Compulsory.
- 6c+
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- Friends 1–4
A shorter line that can dry relatively quickly. The detailed topo shows two 60-metre pitches and an exposed exit pitch.
First ascent: M. Trottmann and M. König, 2010.
Stubby & Charlie
- Compulsory.
- 6c
- Hedging
- Mostly well bolted · first hard pitch exposed
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- 12 quickdraws
A special route with a different character of protection: a fall is particularly problematic on the first hard pitch. The remaining sections are much more closely bolted.
First ascent: Allan Aubry, 2016.
Size Matters
- Compulsory.
- 6c
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Cams 0.3–0.75
Between Piccola Spada and Lochblick. Steep, grippy climbing with short, bouldery sequences; individual pitches lead through more loose rock.
First ascent: Wolf and Mayer, 2020.
Leeperhammer
- Compulsory.
- 7a
- Hedging
- Good · supplement
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- 12 quickdraws · Camalots 0.5, 0.75 and 1
Grippy rock structures at the bottom, technical wall climbing in the middle. From the ninth pitch, the route winds through a heavily overhanging wall zone.
First ascent: Tom Hänseler, Mäsi Waser and Sämi Speck, 2012–2018.
little lake journey
- Compulsory.
- 6b
- Hedging
- Good · customisable
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- 12 quickdraws · slings
Varied climbing with slabs, grippy structures and overhangs on the right-hand part of the wall. The topo contains important notes on the 50-metre abseil section and quickdraws to be clipped.
First ascent: Sämi Speck and Mäsi Waser, 2020.
Riffshark
- Compulsory.
- 7b
- Hedging
- Well protected with expansion bolts
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- 12 quickdraws
Grippy structures at the bottom, followed by technical wall climbing. Pitches six to eight combine demanding overhangs with wall sections; pocket climbing follows at the end.
First ascent: Sämi Speck and Mäsi Waser, 2020.
separately drawn lines
Projects in the documents
The following lines are designated as projects in the provided documents. No current status regarding site visits or development can be derived from this.
Speck Project
Sämi Speck, 2010. Marked on the central sector topo; complete information regarding difficulty, length and equipment is missing.
Galtiberg Sheepranch
*Evaluation and project status according to documents. B. Rathmayr and R. Ruhstaller, 1994. Described as sparsely furnished; clarify the current status before planning.
The return journey is part of the route selection
Descent and abseiling
Many routes are left by abseiling. There is no single standard abseil route for the entire face in these documents. Use the route line and rope lengths of your chosen route.
- PlaySir: upper abseil anchor to the side on a small pillar; note «50 m tight» in the topo.
- Leeper hammer: special note on clipping in to the towrope in the overhanging upper section.
- Seepfärdli: 50-metre abseiling section and notes on clipping quickdraws.
- Supervitamin: severely overhanging upper pitches; take abseil notes into account.
- The Kitchen Master: two 60-metre pitches, plan equipment and retreat accordingly.
After reaching the start area, the return route leads via the approach traverses and Hohfad to the Fürenalp car park. Allow enough time for this section even after abseiling.
For experienced rope teams
Requirements
- Safe climbing within the mandatory grade of the chosen route
- Stamina for long multi-pitch trad climbing and overhangs
- Routine with mobile protection and alpine belays
- Secure rope management on traverses and heavily overhanging sections
- Experience with complex abseiling routes and retreat options
- Navigation on trails and ledges
- Independent assessment of weather, snow, rock and fixed ropes
A lower maximum grade here does not automatically mean an easier overall undertaking. Always compare protection, length, rock quality and the return route as well.
Compile route-specifically
Equipment
- Two 50- or 60-metre ropes according to the route; clarify any discrepancies in advance
- Express slings and extendable runners according to the route
- Friends, or cams and nuts in the specified sizes
- Slings and additional equipment according to the detailed topograph
- climbing harness, helmet, climbing shoes and suitable approach shoes
- belay and abseil device and personal tether
- Equipment and skill for retreating from overhanging terrain
- Map and matching detailed topo offline
- Headtorch, warm clothing, weather protection, drinks and food
Good to know
Questions about climbing the Titlis North Face
How difficult are the routes on the Titlis north face?
The described lines range from 6b+ to 8b+. Even the more moderately graded routes require alpine experience and secure procedures on long faces.
How do I find the right topo?
In the «Topo selection» section, you can open eight entries. Several central routes share a sector topo; the route names are listed in the selection.
How do I enlarge a long topo?
Open the required entry and select «Open original full size». The JPG file will open directly in the browser, where it can be zoomed and saved.
How long is the approach walk?
From the Fürenalp car park, about two hours to the climbing area are indicated. Depending on the route, there are additional traverses at the base of the wall; the map indicates another 30 minutes in places for this.
Do I need 50- or 60-metre ropes?
That depends on the route. Some lines require two 60-metre ropes. In the case of Piccola Spada and Rapunzel, longer topo sections are noted despite the 50-metre specification in the equipment list; this must be clarified in advance.
Are all routes fully bolted?
No. Many routes require additional mobile backup systems, others have longer intervals or individual exposed sections. Pay attention to the details for each route.
Can I rely on existing fixed ropes?
Not tested. Condition and anchorages must be assessed prior to loading. Plan in such a way that missing or damaged equipment can be accounted for.
Alpine multi-pitch routes above Engelberg
Titlis North Face with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a route on the Titlis North Face? Discuss your climbing standard, endurance and experience with Dani. Together you can work out which objective and framework suit you.
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