Multi-pitch · Engelberg · Titlis
Titlis East Face Climbing – Titlis and Last Exit Titlis
Two major alpine rock climbs on the east face of the Titlis: Tiltis cuts through the face in 28 pitches. Letzte Ausfahrt Titlis starts higher up and demands climbing ability up to 8a+.
Length, retreat and safety are just as crucial here as the degree of difficulty. The face lies well above the Engelbergertal; both lines are serious undertakings for experienced rope parties.
- Difficulty
- 7a / 8a+
- Length
- 28 / 13 SL
- boarding
- approx. 2 hours / via Grassenbiwak
- Hedging
- Alpine; note condition
- Entrance
- c. 1980 / 2600 m
- Season
- July–September
- Exhibition
- East
- Character
- Big alpine face
To get started
Access description
Tiltis
From the Fürenalp car park, follow the access route marked on the map towards Bödmenberg to the lower base of the wall. The route documentation states about two hours to the start at around 1980 m. The final metres are alpine terrain.
Last exit Titlis
Via access to the Grassen bivouac into the upper wall section. From there, a further approach of about 15 minutes is noted in the route plan. The Grassen bivouac is situated at 2,647 m. For the standard approach, the SAC specifies T4 and around 4:45 hours. SAC: Ascent to the Grassen Bivouac ↗
Orientation on the wall
Wall overview
All details for the respective route
Routes and topos
Tiltis
- Length
- 28 SL
- Compulsory.
- 6b+
- Material
- 2 × 50 m according to route description; Friends 1–3, nuts / rocks
- First ascent
- M. Pistor, O. & D. Appert, 1997
A long line up the east face to the summit ridge. Bivouac sites are marked at the foot of the wall and after the 13th pitch. Pitches 14–17 quickly flood during thunderstorms.
Insurance Alpine; lots of self-belaying. According to Dani, some of the protection material is damaged or very old.
The topo notes a 52 m abseil pitch. The blanket equipment specification of 2 × 50 m is not sufficient for retreat planning. Coordinate pitch lengths, locations and the rope system before the tour.
Last exit Titlis
- Length
- 13 SP · approx. 500 m
- Compulsory.
- 7a
- Material
- 2 × 50 m; 10 quickdraws
- First ascent
- S. Glowacz & M. Dorfleitner, 2004
Continuously steep climbing in the upper section of the east face, near the Grassen bivouac and east of the south-east pillar. The difficulties and exposure demand significantly more than just mastering a single crux.
Insurance Alpine and wide protection spacing. The original material assessment is not a current condition confirmation.
The route table gives 8a+, the photo topo 8a. For planning purposes, the higher grade is given here.
Plan the tour right to the end
Descent and return journey
At Tiltis, both abseiling down the route and continuing towards Titlis are described. Both require independent planning; damaged anchors and the 52 m abseil length must be given special consideration. For 'Letzte Ausfahrt Titlis', the photo topo does not provide a complete abseil plan. The onward route after the exit must be determined before starting the climb.
This is what you bring to the table
Requirements and character
You need experience in long alpine multi-pitch routes, traditional gear and demanding route finding. A stable weather window is particularly important on Tiltis: in the central pitches, watercourses can make a retreat difficult.
For climbing route and return path
Equipment
The route-specific equipment is in every route box. In addition, the personal equipment includes:
- Climbing harness, helmet, climbing shoes and suitable mountaineering boots
- Belay and abseiling device, self-belay, screwgate carabiner and slings
- Mobile protection and rope system according to the chosen route and return path
- Glacier equipment with crampons, ice axe and crevasse rescue gear depending on the ascent route
- Head torch, weather protection, warm clothing, food and plenty of drinks
- Map and topos offline; bring bivouac gear if planning for multiple days
Additional knowledge
Frequently asked questions
Is the route really called Titlis?
Yes. Tiltis is the intended wordplay on Titlis.
Can I rely on the existing hooks?
At Tilted, there is an explicit warning about damaged and old gear. Existing pegs are therefore no blanket guarantee of reliable protection.
Can I stay overnight at the Grassen Bivouac?
Standard seats require a reservation. Grassenbiwak: Reservation and facilities ↗
Does the exit lead directly to the train?
At the top station, routes may change due to construction work. TITLIS: Route guidance information ↗ The route from the exit of the climb to the top station is part of alpine tour planning.
Dani Perret · IFMGA Mountain Guide
Titlis East Face with mountain guide
Do you want to plan an alpine climbing tour? Write to me which routes you have already climbed and what you feel capable of. Together we will figure out which objective matches your experience and the conditions.
Alpine climbing with Dani
Discuss route selection and tour planning together.
View offer ↗Further goals
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