Alpine North walls · Titlis · Engelberg Valley
Titlis East Wall «Highway to Minttu»
Highway to Minttu combines mixed climbing with the distinctive Spitzli Fall in the Titlis East Face. The line is described as M5 and WI5+, and overcomes 800 meters of elevation in twelve pitches. Access is from above through the Ostwandcouloir before the route returns to the Titlis.
- Difficulty
- M5, WI5+
- Length
- 12 SL
- Total duration
- 10 h
- Starting point
- Titlis
- Altitude
- 2000–2800 m above sea level.
- Season
- November–December
- Aspect
- East
- Character
- Alpine Ice and Mixed Route
Elevation difference: 800 m
Starting point and access
boarding
Take the train to the Titlis, then descend through the Ostwandcouloir to the entrance. In the couloir you will descend three times. Note the columns. The ascent ticket includes section times of 20 minutes, one hour, and 35 minutes.
Assigning lines
Area and route overview
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
Highway to Minttu
- Length
- 800 m · 12 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- 10–12 ice screws, cams 0.2–2, various normal hooks
- Hedging
- Alpin, self-locking; 1 normal hook included.
The lower part contains M5 passages with the toponyms Einstiegsrampe, Im extremen Gras, Dicker Tourist and Boulderrus. The 60-m-long Psycho traverse is followed by the steep ice passages at the Spoitzlifall. Further up are Schneesturm, Steil empor and Final cut; then follows the exit via mixed terrain and the snowfield.
First ascent: D. Bischof and D. Perret, Christmas 2015.
Plan the return journey
Descent
After the upper mixed-passage, the line leads over a 40° slope to the northeast ridge. From there, the topo indicates an hour to the ski lift. The overview map also shows the further route towards Stand.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
Be aware of avalanche danger and crevasses. The route is steep and self-reliant; a normal hook is available. Retreating is difficult. Plan the route for snow-free autumn conditions.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Ice and mixed in detail
Insights into the routes
Briefly answered
Questions about Titlis East Wall «Highway to Minttu»
How difficult is Highway to Minttu?
The route is rated M5 and WI5+, and covers 800 m and twelve pitches.
Where does the approach path begin?
Take the train to the Titlis, then descend through the Ostwandcouloir to the entrance. The map includes three descents and column directions.
Which ropes are specified?
The material list lists two 60-meter ropes. The photo-topo also includes a 65-meter-long rope. This discrepancy must be clarified before a survey is conducted.
Is withdrawal easy?
No. It is difficult to withdraw from the route.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a line or work on your technique in the ice and mixed-surface area? Write to me about your experience and the goal you are interested in.
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