Alpine North walls · Titlis · Engelberg Valley
Titlis South-West Wall: Ice and Mixed
The Titlis South West Wall combines ice and mixed climbing with couloirs and snow fields. China-Vagina contains an underground rope length; the Schissifall is documented as an unusual ice line from the wastewater of the summit facility. Both descriptions require suitable ice, firn and avalanche conditions.
- Difficulty
- SS / M5 / 5b / A1 · WI5
- Length
- China-Vagina 500 hm
- boarding
- Starting point
- Titlisjoch
- Altitude
- 2500–3000 m above sea level.
- Season
- November–December / April–May
- Aspect
- SW
- Character
- Ice · Mixed · Couloirs
Starting point and access
boarding
The preferred access route leads via the Titlisjoch during the round-trip hike. In this case, you descend 20 meters. The map shows the other access route to the lower wall section.
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
China Vagina
- Length
- 500 hm
- Rope
- 2 × 60 m
- Material
- 5 ice screws, cams 0.0–2, 1 Sky Hook
- Hedging
- Self-locking; some drill hooks are included.
The route ascends through couloirs and snowfields to mixed passages. Notable features on the topo include the China Vagina, the underground hellhole with A1 or WI3 respectively, and the Airibus with 5b. Finally, the exit crack marked with M4 follows.
First ascent: N. Gander, M. Hilti and D. Perret, Spring 2017.
Stormfall
- Length
- 11 SL plus snow fields
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Screw spikes, cams 0.0–2
- Hedging
The icefall was formed from wastewater from the summit facility. The documented ascent took place in severe cold and little sunshine. As the sun became increasingly intense, snow conditions set in. It is unclear whether and in what form the line will continue to form.
First ascent: Donat Bischof and Dani Perret.
Plan the return journey
Descent
The routes reach the area of the summit station. The area description describes the return journey by gondola down to the valley. For the lower entry to Schissifall, a 25-m-long rappel route is additionally marked on the photo-topo; it is distinguishable from the general 20-m-long entry information.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
Ice, firn and avalanche conditions must be compatible. In China Vagina there are individual drill hooks; you still have to secure yourself. The slide occurred from wastewater from the summit facility. During the documented ascent, sun and warming conditions led to snowweather. It is unclear whether and in what form this ice line will continue to form.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Ice and mixed in detail
Insights into the routes
Briefly answered
Questions about Titlis South-West Wall: Ice and mixed
How do you access the Titlis South West wall?
Over the Titlisjoch during the round tour. You climb down 20 m in the process.
What difficulties does China vagina have?
SS / M5 / 5b / A1 at 500 m altitude. The line includes an underground rope length.
What is the Schissifall?
An ice line from the waste water of the summit facility. It is unclear whether and in what form it continues to form.
Which ropes are specified for the emergency situation?
There are measurements of 2 × 50 m and 2 × 60 m. The photo-topo contains 60-m rope lengths. Please clarify the rope requirements before embarking on a survey.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a line or work on your technique in the ice and mixed-surface area? Write to me about your experience and the goal you are interested in.
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