Alpine North Walls · Jochpass · Engelberg Valley
Schafberg / Graustock North Face
On the Schafberg / Graustock North wall, inclined ice steps with snow and mixed terrain alternate. In the pre-winter period when there is little snow, ice passages can form after several cold days; the described steps are approximately 30–40 m long and inclined at approximately 70°. The Stei-Route, Flugsau and Eisschild have different requirements and routes.
- Difficulty
- ZS+ / M3 · WI3–4 / A0 / S+
- Length
- Stei route 800 m
- boarding
- 45 minutes
- Starting point
- Trübsee
- Altitude
- Elevation of entry: 1980 m above sea level.
- Season
- December
- Aspect
- NO
- Character
- Ice · Snow · Mixed
Starting point and access
boarding
The preferred starting point is Trübsee. The access card shows the route via Frutt to Wandfuss and states 45 minutes. The overview sorts the entrances from Flugsau, Stei-Route and Eisschild.
Assigning lines
Area and route overview
Route data and detailed maps
Route description
Compare difficulty, length and material. You can open the appropriate topo directly in the respective route box.
Stei route
- Length
- 800 m
- Rope
- 1 × 40 m
- Material
- Ice screws, possibly small Friends
- Hedging
The line uses ice steps, snow bands and an upper exit through a hidden couloir. In addition to ZS+ / M3, the rating for the area is ZS / WI3. Note the exposed crossing and the monster hump in the overview map.
First ascent: Stei with skis.
Flugsau
- Length
- 7 SL plus wall
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
The continuous line connects ice with alpine terrain. The pitch length can be climbed to 15 m A0; the topo lists M8 for free ascent there. After the last ice chute, the exit is via the Stei route.
First ascent: R. Lönell, R. Stiens, J. Fürsinger and D. Perret.
Ice shield
- Length
- 3 SL
- Rope
- 2 × 50 m
- Material
- Hedging
Short pillar, snowfield and upper ice sheet. The phototopo lists 30 m WI4, a snowfield of 45°, 30 m WI3+ and 25 m WI3. The last stand has been excavated.
Return journey: 50 m rappel down to the snow field; then walk over the rope or rappel down again via the first rope length. Not set up.
First ascent: Rick Stiens, Robert Lönell and Dani Perret, 2019.
Plan the return journey
Descent
On the Stei route, the overview shows the exit via the band and a hidden couloir, an exposed crossing and once 40 m of abseiling on the south side. After the last ice tube, Flugsau reaches the Stei route; the further path via bands and a couloir to the summit is marked with 1–2 hours. At the ice shield: 50 m abseil to the snowfield, then on foot over the band or again abseil over the first rope length.
Ice formation and objective hazards
Safety and conditions
Be aware of the risk of avalanches and avalanche closures. A mountain guide is recommended for first trips on the north face. The ice shield has only been excavated to the last stand; the further descent is not established.
Check before the tour current conditions in Engelberg, that SLF avalanche bulletin and the weather development. The seasonal timeframes and walk-through photos do not replace an up-to-date assessment.
Ice and mixed in detail
Insights into the routes
Briefly answered
Questions about Schafberg / Graustock North Face
Is the wall suitable for beginners who climb north?
The Stei route is described as the starting point for North Wall tours in suitable early winter conditions with low snow levels. Avalanche, weather and the alpine return route remain crucial; a mountain guide is recommended.
How is Flugsau different from the Stei route?
Flugsau has seven pitches plus the additional wall climb and is indicated with WI4, A0 and S+. The exit then leads via the Stei route.
How do I get back from the ice shield?
From the last hole dug 50 m away, descend to the snowfield. The text then mentions hiking the band or another rappel over the first length of rope; these sections are not equipped.
Dani Perret · UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide · Engelberg
Ice climbing tour with a mountain guide
Do you want to plan a line or work on your technique in the ice and mixed-surface area? Write to me about your experience and the goal you are interested in.
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