Alpine climbing · Titlis · North side
Titlis Old North Ridge – the classic route through the north side
From below, the north side of the Titlis looks closed and forbidding. The old north ridge finds in it a surprisingly logical succession of bands, ramps, and rock steps. Individual sections reach 4b on the topo; much terrain in between is easier to traverse, but equally carefully. The tour thrives on its length and the independent way of traveling through a large wall. After exiting, the transition to Klein Titlis follows.
- Route
- Old North Ridge · classic line
- Climbing difficulty
- Up to 4b according to Fototopo
- Hedging
- Alpin · additionally securing themselves
- Character
- Long wall and rock climbing
- boarding
- Bödmen / Hohfad · last time without a hitch
- Exit
- Glacier area towards Klein Titlis
- Material
- Cams 0.5–2, wedges and loops
- Cable planning
- Note the 45-meter passage in the topo
The Old North Ridge and the direct northern edge of «Via Ruedi» are different routes. The common photo-topo shows both lines. Plan the route only in dry and suitable alpine conditions.
Understand the line
Map and Topos
The Fototopo is included in the tour for the entire duration. It shows the classic line through ramps and rock steps; the direct north edge is marked separately next to it. For the small labels, open the original.
Interactive map of the area
Open the full-size map on swisstopo ↗
Save maps and topo maps offline before the tour. The drawings show the route; glacier status, snow conditions, closures, and safety equipment may change.
From the starting point to the summit
Route description
Over Bödmen or Hohfad to the north side
Depending on the starting point, you can follow the trails leading to the Titlis North side via Bödmen or Hohfad. For the final section, compare the line on the topo map with the terrain early on. The entrance is not reached via a continuously marked hiking trail.
Find the entry point for the classic line
Go straight to the entrance described in the Fototopo. Distinguish the Old North Ridge from the more direct neighboring line. The correct line uses terrain slopes and ramps, instead of following the distinctive edge directly continuously.
Higher up through steps, crossings and ramps
The rock zones marked on the topo follow. The heavier sections up to 4b are only part of the challenge: on bands and in easier terrain, orientation, safety, and the quality of individual holds remain important. The topo also points out a short descent and a hidden ramp.
Over the upper rail for exiting
In the upper part, the route leads to the ridge and continues into the area of the Titlis glacier. Cracks and the exposed passage below the exit must be carefully secured. The tour planning for the subsequent transition to Klein Titlis is not yet complete.
The return is part of the tour
Descent and return journey
After exiting to the Klein Titlis and the open mountain station. Depending on the condition, this section leads over snow, firn or glacier terrain and requires the appropriate equipment and safety measures. The railway is only part of the return route during actual operation. For a long hiking tour, you need to allow for time beyond the time spent climbing alone.
What matters
Key points and conditions
Few existing and partially older routes require independent securing. The moderate climbing difficulty should not be confused with a densely equipped multi-pitch route.
Wet rungs, snow remains, loose blocks and poor visibility can significantly complicate the course. Retreating from the wall is more complex than abseiling from the top. Therefore, assess the weather, rock conditions and exit together.
The planners are assisted by Current situation around Engelberg. Re-check the weather, snow conditions and local advice before starting.
In keeping with the entire route
Equipment and requirements
- Helmet, harness, safety device, loops and screw hooks.
- Alpine rope of the appropriate length to match the line; the topo includes a 45-m passage.
- Cams 0.5–2 and wedges for additional reinforcement.
- Hiking or climbing boots and, if necessary, crampons; equipment for the snow or glacier section at the exit.
- Fototopo offline, headlamp, weather protection, emergency equipment and backup for the long day.
Dani Perret · IFMGA Mountain Guide
My tip
Look for the next continuation early, as long as you have a good overview of the terrain. The Old North Ridge is particularly rewarding when the climbing team views the wall as a continuous alpine line and does not think of it as just getting harder from one difficult section to the next.
Frequently asked questions
Is that the Via Ruedi?
No. The direct north edge «Via Ruedi» is a separate, significantly more difficult climbing route. Both lines are drawn differently on the photo topo.
Do I need mobile backups?
Yes. The securing is alpine style. Cams, wedges and loops are part of the equipment for the classic line.
Why is the exit part of the equipment planning?
After the rock climbing, the transition towards Klein Titlis follows. Snow, ice or glacier areas may require a different equipment than climbing.
Local travel. Personally guided.
Titlis Old North Ridge with mountain guide
Would you like to take this guided tour? We will discuss your experience, the appropriate date, and the current conditions. On the offer page, you will find the itinerary, the services, and the option to book or make an inquiry.
